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Post by bluesdude on Nov 13, 2019 17:06:53 GMT
If it has a one piece mahogany neck with Duolian stamp then its definataly a 34 like Snake hips mentioned,,,,,,,I have a 34 E-SERIES
Kenny,,,,,,,,,,,
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Post by bluesdude on Nov 7, 2019 9:43:28 GMT
Real beaut Keith,best sounding Nationals in my opinion,,,,,,,,,,
Kenny,,,,,,,
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Post by bluesdude on Oct 17, 2019 16:24:32 GMT
I was told by someone in the know that Johnny Winter recorded his solo National tracks with a radio shack clip-on mini mic!
Kenny,,,,,,,,,
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Post by bluesdude on Jul 24, 2019 21:18:25 GMT
Hi there ! That Fishman Polomint (Lifesaver, for you Americans !) bug pickup is terrible. If you don’t want an electric guitar type sound, then I strongly recommend the Highlander pickup system (wooden biscuit with special piezo pickup, Highlander preamp mounted inside the guitar, external 9V battery box and stereo jack cable). The Highlander pickups are expensive. However, there is a way ..... ! If you have an acoustic guitar preamp, you can buy just the Highlander biscuit with special piezo pickup, on it’s own, for much less than the whole system. The better the acoustic guitar preamp you have, the better the pickup tone. I strongly recommend a preamp that is phantom powered, instead of one powered by a 9V battery. I can highly recommend the Orchid Electronics acoustic guitar preamp. Worth every penny (circa £200). If you have multiple reso guitars you wanted to install quality pickups in, get the HIghlander biscuit pickup for each guitar, and ONE external preamp. Saves you money, compared to buying the whle system for each guitar. Contact Jason at National Resophonic for a good price as he/they at NRP readily/swiftly answer emails, unlike Highlander themselves. I am trying to find time to trial a new amplification system for my Nationals, but been pretty busy lately. Will keep y’all posted how I get on in due course. Hi there I would like to know what it is your trying ! there is a new pickup system being tested on a friends style O that is supposed to rival the highlander! maybe its the same one your referring to? Kenny,,,,,
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Post by bluesdude on Jun 23, 2019 22:15:05 GMT
My pleasure, Chris. For example - sometimes NRP pit-props (mushrooms) can be over-tight. I understand the reason, it is to make them last a hundred years, but sometimes that can have a negative affect on the tone. BTW - this in NOT a criticism of NRP's construction, it is an observation based on personal experience and things I have heard said by luthiers that work on them. Yours might be perfect, so don't go loosening all the components. I am just explaining some "possible" reasons for your guitar being bright. Another possibility is to change the cone, or the bridge saddle, or both.....and so on. Shine On Michael. So true Michael, even changing neck-stick material changes the tone a lot! the biggest factor I believe is when people do neck sets and over shoot neck angle so much that they shim the fingerboard extension! I see way too many set up with too much break angle when all they had to do was address the neck bow a leave the heal alone,,,,,,,,,,,,,, Kenny,,,,,,
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Post by bluesdude on May 6, 2019 21:18:45 GMT
I've tried jb weld but the ardalite worked much better in my case, but jb weld is great for making stripped cover=plates holes smaller,,, Kenny,,,,,, Hi Kenny, did you try the tank weld or the two tube... never something as fragile as a cone, but ive used it on tanks that arent much different than a metal reso body with fuel tight results... I think it would work well on that lip... The tankweld varity ive never seen on astore shelf. Its not as gooey and unwieldy... the product stock # is 2110 All best, jeff Humm Jeff I never thought of that stuff! I've repaired many a leaky gas tank with that stuff,,,,,,,,,,,, Kenny,
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Post by bluesdude on Apr 30, 2019 8:22:29 GMT
Hi there, "She caught the rumblin' means she started a fight! and of course I caught the falling down" is the result!
Kenny,,,,,,,,,
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Post by bluesdude on Mar 2, 2019 0:32:16 GMT
I know John's Estralita and it sounds very nice. I would not advise fitting a Hotrod cone because I don't see it as an upgrade, more as a side-grade. It was a clever marketing exercise and it worked. There is nothing wrong with a Hotrod, but there is also nothing wrong with a pre Hotrod NRP cone. Actually I don't think they are called Hotrods anymore, just National cones. Shine On Michael Um I disagree,, the pre hot-rod cones were taller and a different metal content which gave a weird trebley sound! supposedly the hot-rod were a closer alloy to the original ones, very hard for them to match the originals though as the way they smelter aluminum is very different these days. In my early NRP Jazz-Blues I have a minty old cone from the thirties,I love the sound of these wood body Nationals. I have to agree on the continental cones they sound awesome I had the pleasure in playing some MM guitars at the 12 fret in Toronto very impressive. Kenny,,,,,
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Post by bluesdude on Jan 20, 2019 12:44:32 GMT
That's a neat job especially if it all goes to plan. I would try to neutralise the corrosion rather than re-install it as is.. Forgive me for not re-reading the thread but is it a steel body? It's as though there's rust stains from the body because I haven't seen aluminium corrode like that before. Nice work. e&oe...++ Not rust but I believe its a reaction created by two different metals, the word for this escapes me now but I've seen this reaction between Galvalum roofing tin and plain metal,its like a oxidation,,,,,,,,,,, Kenny,,,,,
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Post by bluesdude on Jan 19, 2019 20:05:32 GMT
Alls well that ends well! awesome!
Kenny,,
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Post by bluesdude on Jan 17, 2019 20:16:31 GMT
Fwiw... we have a product avaliable in the USA... JB weld. The company makes a variety of products but there is a two part epoxy which contains steel... this stuff is machinable, will work on a cracked engine block, is great for restoring threads and if nothing else, worth a shot if all else fails. THe only caveat is if you get it where you dont want it, it is a bitc* to remove... rebuilding that edge would be doable but will require a bit of moulding or sculpting skill. google: jb weld, tank weld Www.JBWELD.comHth... jeff edit: either one of those photos is backwards, the guitar was strung lefty... or i have lost my mind.........completely😜 I've tried jb weld but the ardalite worked much better in my case, but jb weld is great for making stripped cover=plates holes smaller,,, Kenny,,,,,,
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Post by bluesdude on Jan 17, 2019 17:26:17 GMT
I would have thought that using aluminium tape to reinforce a collapsed cone will kill the sound. Whenever I have repaired collapsed cones I have either used nothing, which is the case in my Tricone and they have been fine for 20 years, or I have run beads of old fashioned glue that dries rock hard (the UK brand is Araldite) along the inside of the spirals where the collapse happened, and that seems to work without harming the tone. I don't remember who taught me to do that. Using felt is a good option if you want the sound that a felt gasket gives you. It is worth a try, but remember it takes a while for the cone to bed into the felt and give the proper sound. The longer it is there, the better it sounds because the more the cone cuts into the felt. Shine On Michael. Yes I've used ardalite to repair a cone too! I believe it was Don Young who gave me the tip over the phone,,,,,,,,,,,the cone I repaired had a split after a dent was smoothed out,,,,,,,,,, Kenny,,,
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Post by bluesdude on Jan 11, 2019 19:32:53 GMT
I've only seen one Don up close and it had a maroon coloured stain on the back of the neck! this one looks odd!
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Post by bluesdude on Dec 30, 2018 20:45:52 GMT
Jeff, The Delphi does have a particularly heavy body, but I think that from what you have said, this is all to do with set up. I don't believe that a new cone (unless yours is damaged) will improve things, but I do think the correct setup will. It is always so difficult without the guitar in my hands, but maybe you could post some photos showing the details of the current setup; string height, break angle, saddle and biscuit etc... Happy to help, but I need as much info as possible, or a return flight ticket to NOLA Shine On Michael Yeah I second the proper set-up! the way the saddle slots are cut can have a huge impact on a tinny sound! Kenny,,,,,,,,,,
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Post by bluesdude on Dec 27, 2018 17:17:59 GMT
Hello, as I've been simultaneously talking myself into and out of buying a new cone for a guitar I'm just not quite happy with, finding some on gbase and posting here. and discovering there are "tall" cones that will effect tone and setup... ...searching the forum using terms "tall" and "cone" I have come across something else I never would have considered without y'all. Apparently a taller cone and shorter saddle will tilt the tonal response of a reso toward the bass. I'm wondering if anyone has tried this with the intent of changing tone ? My Delphi sounds a bit thin for my tastes or at least thin and more trebly and metallic than the Beard or the Republic. No buzzing or other untoward behavior, I've been thinking of selling it. After fixing its previous owners attempts at lutherie, the guitar plays well, but just doesn't sing like I want it to. Any thoughts or experience in regards to changing cone height and how it effects tone and setup much appreciated. tia, and all best, jeff Hey there I have experience with all the different NRP cones, the first ones Don Young made were little lower than vintage ones, then they made a new batch in the nineties that were taller by quite a bit they were very trebley just like the previous! the hot rod cones are noticeably smoother like the vintage cones ,,, A fellow had me work on his Delphi for the same reason and I added a proper reproduction felt 100% wool,tuned the guitar to open A for a couple of months to seat the cone ! He is still very happy with it nearly a decade later you can't tell there is anything different in volume from any other Delphi! you might get away with just swapping the cone to a hot rod though,,,, Kenny,,,
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