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Post by pete1951 on Mar 24, 2021 15:14:35 GMT
The Republic has the F holes (plus’s the 3 holes similar to Dobros) ,these should do the job. It is possible that the distance between the back of the cone and the F holes gives a better sound than a setup with no F holes and holes in the well. With the holes so close you may get more phase cancelation and end up with less volume?*. Resonator guitars usually follow the same basic pattern ( cover plate with holes and sound hole each side of the finger board) Most of the best sounding one do, the ‘holes in the well’ design was for instruments tuned to a higher pitch and with a small body. It will probably give a better acoustic tone on a Reso-electric, but Reso-electrics are a compromise instrument, they will not handle like a real Reso nor like a solid body, they are something in between . Pete
*as I am not an acoustics expert this may be rubbish
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Post by pete1951 on Mar 24, 2021 12:39:15 GMT
Here’s a quick sketch of a couple of cross sections. The ‘well’ on an acoustic reso. has the cone sitting on it. So if there are no hole in the body ( other than the cover plate grills) the sound from the back of the cone can’t get out . The 1133 s way is to put a cover over a large hole in the back ( Tele conversations often have a pattern of holes drilled in the back) and the Reso-mandolin can have holes in the side of the well so the back-tone can get out. Pete
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Post by pete1951 on Mar 23, 2021 11:54:02 GMT
One thing springs to mind, and that is how to get sound generated from the back of the cone into play. National on their 1133s had on open back with a flat cover plate ( this is common on Tele conversations) . On some small body instruments they put holes around the well to let sound from the body back into the top of the cone. Do you have any ideas on ways of releasing the sound from the back? Pete
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Post by pete1951 on Mar 23, 2021 9:58:54 GMT
Great looking guitar, I have made a Res Paul ( that seems the best name) with an old Les Paul copy body. Though I put a longer scale neck on it to bring the cone down into the body. Looks like you won’t need much help with this , good luck Pete
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Post by pete1951 on Mar 22, 2021 17:21:02 GMT
Hi Pete, Thanks for that idea. It is a good way to send a cone, but I don't buy biscuits, Shine On Michael. “Don’t buy biscuits” ? What do you put on your cones? I do have a lot of damaged cones and would also let Dolando have one for the postage, it is quite useful to have one you can throw in and out without worrying about damage. Pete
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Post by pete1951 on Mar 22, 2021 12:23:27 GMT
The problem with cones is they're so darn fragile to pack and post. Shine On Michael Here is my most used cone, it’s a Continental that was damaged and returned to Busker. I use it during most builds as it doesn’t matter if I drop it or it gets a dent from a screwdriver, a new cone can then be used when I am happy with the guitar.. Usually kept in this biscuit tin, I did have 2, and thought I would buy another every Christmas but have found none for sale the last few years. With the saddle and biscuit removed there is an inch or so space for bubble wrap, I’m sure it would make a great container for postage.z Pete
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Post by pete1951 on Mar 21, 2021 20:33:20 GMT
Viking and Golden Gate cones are both stocked by Hob Goblin Music , Viking cones look like Continental and are not too expensive Golden Gate look like Korean cones which are dull sounding (though better looking). Pete
Are you making from scratch or using a donor guitar?
Posting cone used to be easy, you just bought a tin of biscuits large enough, nowadays plastic and cardboard have replaced tin.
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Post by pete1951 on Mar 21, 2021 11:15:17 GMT
Underside pics of modern Far Eastern T ( usually they sound better with black paint removed) and old style T. This old style T was made in the UK and has an angled saddle, most (all?)original National are straight?( NRP May have gone over to the ‘compensated ‘ shape) The centre pins on the Far Eastern one are part of the casting, the UK made (and the ones on my guitar) have steel pins. Pete The final position/machining of the cup and pins was left until after casting in case of any shrinking
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Post by pete1951 on Mar 20, 2021 13:48:15 GMT
Re: Y bridge
I made the pattern you see in the picture, then got it cast by the engineering dept of my local university. There was then some minor metal work to do the cone seating and saddle. Pete
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Post by pete1951 on Mar 20, 2021 11:09:33 GMT
The Y cone might work. But only just, and finding someone to make the Y will be a challenge! But not the T
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Post by pete1951 on Mar 20, 2021 7:29:37 GMT
Will do some measurements later today. Pete
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Post by pete1951 on Mar 19, 2021 12:35:40 GMT
Here is another that got the ‘Full metal Jacket’ This has Y bridge like some National mandolins . This allowed me to use a 14 fret neck, with a T bridge one cone gets too close to the edge.Good luck with the piezo Pete
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Post by pete1951 on Mar 17, 2021 12:21:24 GMT
More stuff I have that I could swop for a neck.... A Sixtus pickup Busker biscuits and cone Various sets of machine heads Pair of Jaguar pickups Pair of 50s Hofner pickups ( any one or two of the above,depending on quality of neck)
I have a lot of stuff, but sadly no neck suitable. For a really good neck I would swop a Brand New Reso neck ( with neck stick) Pete
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Post by pete1951 on Mar 16, 2021 17:31:50 GMT
Just become owner of a cheap 50s F hole guitar body, am looking for a neck. A standard 14 to the body 24 3/4” scale is what I need. So if you have a guitar in the cupboard that someone sat on , or a neck off an acoustic you don’t want can I have it please? Can swop for a Fender style electric neck or a cover plate and cone or even money ( it would have to be cheap unless it’s a Gibson or Martin!) Pete You might be able to see the original neck was held in with a bolt and spring, similar to many Framus and Eastern block guitars. I have my own ideas on how a new neck would be attached, but these may change when a new neck is found. The body is lightly built of birch faced , beech ply, through a magnetic pickup is should sound fine.
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Post by pete1951 on Mar 16, 2021 15:15:31 GMT
The cone you chose looks like an accurate copy of later National cones, unfortunately if it is a Korean made cone ( or at least like ones put in Korean guitars I have seen) it wouldn’t have sounded as a good cone should even if it had survived. The Viking cones that Hobgoblin also stock, look more like Continental ones ( almost as good as the expensive NRP cones if the are ‘Continental brand’)
Why your cone collapsed is a mystery. I have been messing about with cones for years and have only managed to damage one once. It could be too much break angle? Or perhaps the saddle is very high, this might cause some leverage when combined with a large break angle and crush the cone on the edge nearest the finger board. Post some pics if you can Pete
PS : the damaged cone was massaged back to shape and has been fine for the last 40years!
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