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Post by waffle on Jun 11, 2012 17:59:38 GMT
Hi hookedonrzophnx, Hey don't despair, if you know anyone with the experience with woods and guitar making near you,Ask them them about wood movement since the revamp,even though it's an original wood neck.. and has had a beautiful...rebirth by yourself, there will be movement like a new guitar. I think you have done a great job on this guitar..more than i would dare! The design on the Continental and the new Dobro guitars is maybe not right with the back body bolt into the neck, It never left me feeling confident anyway...After all, that is why they have the neck stick and particularly the modern trussrod fitted. Stiill an ace guitar though and i could be wrong..leave it to the experts...
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Post by Keith Ambridge on Jun 11, 2012 20:30:55 GMT
My triolian copy heel and body joint opened up after initial setup and I found that putting slightly longer posts in did the job. Along with everyone else, I think you've done a great job and have a lovely lookin guitar:) Keith.
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Post by Deleted on Jun 11, 2012 21:20:27 GMT
Thanks guys, I appreciate the support! I will try slightly taller/tighter posts next and report back! BTW... the Blue Triolian looks & sounds like it came out great!
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Post by gaucho on Jun 12, 2012 1:24:25 GMT
I must have missed it and reading back thru can't find the tip from MM on twisting the ball ends. Please share that one!
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Post by waffle on Jun 12, 2012 7:35:15 GMT
Hi Gaucho, Here is a thread which Michael explains about twisting ball ends.As Michael states.... If the ball ends of the strings are causing buzzes - do one of the following things > either put them in the tailpiece slots so they don't cause a buzz, or slightly reshape the tailpiece so they cannot buzz. But….do not use a gasket. When I put strings in the tailpiece of my Triplates and one or two other guitars, I use an old string pushed into the hole in the ball end, to guide it and seat it correctly. And I leave the string in the hole while I tune it. This keeps the ball end sitting flat, rather than twisting round so the side of the brass ball end touches the coverplate. (I use a three inch piece of a bottom E string with the ball end on, as my 'ball end controller'. I have done this for years and find it a very useful tool when fitting strings on Nationals). Read more: michaelmesser.proboards.com/index.cgi?action=display&board=tin&thread=5099&page=1#ixzz1xYtIWbr0
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Post by Michael Messer on Jun 12, 2012 10:43:39 GMT
Hi hookedonrzophnx,
Without having your guitar in my hands I can only guess, but....
I don't think that taller posts (pit props, or mushrooms) will do the job on their own. I think you will need to take the neck out and shave a little of the neck stick, which will pull the neck up towards the soundwell (pan). Then you will need longer pit props, but they are not going to make any difference on their own. You may also need to put a wedge inside the body under the fretboard to raise the top, to get the neck angle correct. This is all a bit of a guess, but that is what I think....
Good luck with it. Let us know how you get on
Shine On Michael
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Post by Keith Ambridge on Jun 12, 2012 11:36:32 GMT
Ooops, I forgot that I also reduced the size of the packing pieces between the cone well and the neck stick, so that figures with what Michael says!
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Post by Deleted on Jun 12, 2012 14:25:30 GMT
Hi hookedonrzophnx, Without having your guitar in my hands I can only guess, but.... I don't think that taller posts (pit props, or mushrooms) will do the job on their own. I think you will need to take the neck out and shave a little of the neck stick, which will pull the neck up towards the soundwell (pan). Then you will need longer pit props, but they are not going to make any difference on their own. You may also need to put a wedge inside the body under the fretboard to raise the top, to get the neck angle correct. This is all a bit of a guess, but that is what I think.... Good luck with it. Let us know how you get on Shine On Michael Pretty much spot on assessment there Michael, with the guitar in your hands or not! I removed the posts last night... I had a mahogany shim at the tail end between the well & the stick, but it does seem the stick will need to be shaved at the top & middle of the well....not particularly looking forward to complete neck removal again... but if I have to I have to, the things we do for fun, eh? Thanks again all you guys, you're great!
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Post by Michael Messer on Jun 12, 2012 14:38:31 GMT
Excellent!
I was talking with my MM Guitars partner, Robin, this morning, and we had a chat about your guitar. So it was not just me, it was Robin too. Between us, we can usually workout what needs to be done.
Shine On Michael.
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Post by pete1951 on Jun 12, 2012 16:38:27 GMT
Though I have not done this myself, you can do this without full neck removal. With the screws and props removed, the neck-stick will drop a few mm. ( careful not to put too much strain on the finger-board/12th fret) Then the hard bit! take 2mm(approx) off where the stick hits the lowest bit of the well, 1.5mm in the middle and 1mm from the `top` spot. Replace the props(plus 1or2mm) Good luck, PT I`d remove the neck, and not put the dots back until strung-up for a week or so.
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Post by Deleted on Jun 26, 2012 19:45:15 GMT
Well... this thread can't die, as I can't seem to get this thing done! Anyways... got inside, shaved the stick a little, got a better fit.... BUTthe geometry is all off... When the previous owner drilled off the neck, there was just too much wood removed... I cleaned it up & reshaped it & was able to keep the guitar in good intonation, but I think the neck pitch is just trying to be a few degrees to acute, and probably putting to much pressure on the cone well...and adversely the top by the fretboard, so when string pressure is applied, there's just a little too much 'off' to be able to stay in a straight, tight line for an extended period of time. So.. .being as grudgingly positive as I can be, I'm going to 'reverse sand' some mahogany shims to fit the perimeter of the heel, glue, trim & scrape to shape, match the finish, then start with more than enough wood to properly fit the heel to the body. After MUCH thought & deliberation, I think this is my best bet. I didn't bring her all this way to get 90% done or 'kind of' right... Removed the neck last night, will report back in a few weeks... hopefully with good news!
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Post by Michael Messer on Jun 27, 2012 8:23:42 GMT
Hi Danny,
I am sorry to hear that you have had to do a lot more work to get the guitar intonation correct. Your restoration of this guitar has been a labour of love and a big learning curve.
I am sure it will be worthwhile. You have turned it into a beautiful instrument.
Let us know how you get on.
Shine On Michael
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Post by Deleted on Jul 2, 2012 16:31:55 GMT
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Post by Deleted on Jul 2, 2012 17:38:57 GMT
Keep it up Danny. BTW, how do you like my 'shim'? That is with an offset spider too. Intonation super currently. TT Attachments:
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Post by Deleted on Jul 2, 2012 18:02:37 GMT
Hey thanks Deuce Looks good! Glad to see someone else did this operation with success!
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