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Post by Deleted on Jul 14, 2008 9:05:03 GMT
Silly Question but.....
While I know that with hexagonal core strings the recommended way to fix to the machine head is to loop the string round twice the post before poking the end through the hole. This works well and keeps the strings friendly.
Is this recommended for Newtone round core strings? I cant see why It would be a bad idea but I am being cautious.
What do the experts think, please.
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Post by Michael Messer on Jul 14, 2008 9:41:51 GMT
Hi Barry,
I never do any of those 'recommended' or 'high-tech' ways of fitting strings to a tuner. I have been shown many weird and wonderful loops and winding methods, none of which seem to do anything, other than slow up the stringing process.
I would not recommend the method you are using because you need to get a right angle into the string before winding it around the post. Push the string through the hole, make a nice tight clean right angle bend and tune it up.
I fit wound Newtone strings by just getting a nice tight right angle bend and tightening up the string. One thing - I NEVER let go of my grip of the string until it is in tune. In other words - I keep the tension on the string with my right hand and as I tune the string my right hand gets pulled in towards the fretboard until I have to let go. (As long as there is a nice right angle in the string, it will not unravel).
I hope that makes sense? It is not easy explaining this without showing you.
Shine On Michael
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Post by Deleted on Jul 14, 2008 11:14:57 GMT
Michael
Thanks, it makes perfect sense. I understand the need for tension as the string is tightened...I do that already and have done for years because it keeps the string literally in the right grove.
Thanks again.
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Post by tark on Jul 15, 2008 13:01:54 GMT
I agree with Michael, all the fancy methods of 'tying' the strings onto the tuning posts aren't really necessary.
What many people seem to miss is that the tuners used on 'paddle' type (not slot head) headstocks, have always been designed to provide 'string locking'. If you leave only enough slack in the string for 2 or at most 3 turns of string around the post and then wind the string on in single layer neat spiral BELOW the hole through the post, the coils will be forced up by the taper on the post to friction lock the end of the string in place. This works very well on all the wound strings. It is perhaps less effective on the plains but if you wind only the few turns on neatly they will usually come up to tune and stay in tune right away. I do not believe in the practice of violently grabbing hold of new strings and pulling them away from the guitar to stabilise tuning. If strings are fitted properly this is not necessary and it can damage both the guitar and the strings.
The really important thing about the Newtone strings is not to cut the wound strings before fitting them to the guitar. This is because the tension of the wrap wire is only held from unravelling by a short flattened section on the core wire near the end of the string.
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Post by Michael Messer on Jul 15, 2008 13:44:00 GMT
I agree with you Tark. If the string is neatly wound on to the post, it will stay in tune. I also agree about pulling strings when they are new to apparantly 'stretch them in'. I have never done that. I think it is bad for both strings and guitar. I have often changed strings minutes before a performance and not had a tuning problem.
With resonator guitars, I believe that it is important to be as uninvasive as possible. That is why I always change my strings one at a time and bring each one up to pitch before removing the next string. When a resonator guitar is sounding and playing well, change the strings one at a time and never take the tension off the cone. Every time the tension comes off the cone, something changes. I never de-tune my guitars when I fly, I NEVER de-tune my guitars unless I have to.
On my twelve string National, the tuners are Kluson type with a hole in the mioddle to slot the strings into. I fit Newtone Strings to this guitar and ALTHOUGH THIS IS NOT RECOMMENDED, I cut the wound strings before winding them. I do this by bending a right angle into the string with pliers, then I cut one inch beyond the right angle and as quick as possible....I slot the string in and tune it. I have never had a problem doing it this way. I must say at this point that anyone doing that is not adhering to Newtone's fitting instructions, therefore if a string does unravel , it is your fault....not Newtone's!
Shine On Michael.
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Post by slidenpickit on Jul 19, 2008 19:30:47 GMT
Hi Mike,
I've just got a Style O which has John Pearse strings on it. I've always used Newtone 15 to 56 in the past. Do you have an opinion on John Pearse strings?
Regards
Chris
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Post by Michael Messer on Jul 19, 2008 20:21:02 GMT
Hi Chris,
It is so long since I used anything else but MM Newtones on my guitars, that I am not qualified to comment.
National Reso-Phonic Guitars pride themselves on only using the best of everything so I am sure John Pearse strings are very good. National Reso-Phonic Guitars do also fit MM Newtones to some of their guitars, but I am not sure how they work out which goes on what.
You have to go a long way to find anything better than Newtone Strings. One of the reasons National gave us permission to use their name & logo on Newtone Strings is because they were so knocked out with their quality.
Shine On Michael.
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Post by slidenpickit on Jul 21, 2008 17:12:46 GMT
Thanks Michael,
That's what I thought too. I've used MM strings since about 2000 both acoustic and electric, mainly 15 to 56. In all of that time I've only eve had 1 dud string! Even then I was a bit surprised! I'm going to restring it with MMs to see if there is any difference.
Regards
Chris
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Post by Deleted on Aug 18, 2008 16:38:50 GMT
I have put Newtone MM strings on my fylde to play bottleneck. The tone is fuller than with Elexir strings, the hold pitch better and I have had to change to a lighter glass capo to get any treble from the strings. So Yes, they are better.
Cheers
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Post by shakeyjake on Aug 31, 2008 7:18:33 GMT
Having recently bought a used Republic off ebay and disscovering it had a horrible home made plastic saddle and brass chinese strings.
With advice from ever helpful Robin from Busker guitar's, he advised fitting the oringinal saddle and 15-56 MM Newton strings.
I was close to sticking my Tricone back on ebay... not any more ;-))) Those mod's have done the trick, thanks Robin..
May give the Newtons ago on my acoustic's too !
Paul
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Post by Deleted on Aug 31, 2008 18:36:39 GMT
I have now worked out whey Elixir strings snap on the bridge of my Fylde guitars. They have a very thin covering of stuff that HAS to be applied in a mist and the string HAS to be hot to make the mist stick. Heating steel makes it harder and more brittle especially if it is not cooled slowly enough.. Also, the core is hexagonal, and thus has 6 points of stress around the circumferance. Thus on guitars with no tailpiece the string bends 90 degree to the bridge and Elixirs often snap just there. I am going over to Newtone. If anybody wants to see a 4th string snap in mid song email me from my website and I'll send you a video that wont go on YouTube.
Barry
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Post by Michael Messer on Aug 31, 2008 22:51:28 GMT
Barry, your point about heat is a very valid one. I do not know about the strings you mention, but I do know that when strings get too hot while being made, they are brittle and do not last long enough.
The person to talk more about this subject is Malcolm Newton (Mr Newtone).
Shine On Michael.
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Post by Deleted on Sept 4, 2008 20:27:30 GMT
Michael
All my guitars now have Newtone strings. They bring out qualities of my 30 yr old Fylde Goodfellow that I didn't know it had. And on the Busker Cannon they must help it sing or snarl to order.
Elixir want to conquer the world...Malcome Newton wants to keep guitarists happy!
Barry
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Post by Michael Messer on Sept 5, 2008 11:17:33 GMT
Thanks Barry. Malcolm Newton and his Newtone Strings are unbeatable. I have used them on every one of my guitars for the past 17 years - they are fantastic.
Shine On Michael
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Post by Deleted on Sept 6, 2008 21:30:27 GMT
From my model engineering days I know that to make steel hard it is heated then cooled in a very complex and controlled way. Hard steel is always more brittle that soft steel: it's a pay off. We want guitar strings to have steel that is soft and pliable ( elastic, using the word in a technical way). We don not want the steel to be brittle( inelastic or plastic) and then snap in the middle of a song or a live set.
I have a number of songs on YouTube, folk and acoustic rock/blues, and the one which isn't there yet had the 4th string snap after 85% of the song had been played and sung...and played and sung very well! I was not pleased.
If anybody wants a laugh to to YouTube and search for northwestondonblues.
Bottleneck blues stuff to go on next week.
Barry
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