|
Post by pete1951 on Dec 3, 2022 11:14:58 GMT
Cover plate almost done. Pete
|
|
|
Post by Michael Messer on Dec 3, 2022 13:14:12 GMT
Pete, that is a great find. Is it a steel or brass?
I reckon the right person could cut and press that into shape.
Shine On Michael
|
|
|
Post by pete1951 on Dec 3, 2022 16:43:10 GMT
It’s brass, amazing it didn’t get scraped as part of the war effort. Pete
|
|
|
Post by Michael Messer on Dec 3, 2022 17:42:29 GMT
I will ask around, because I think that should be quite easy for a person with the right skills.
Shine On Michael
|
|
|
Post by pete1951 on Dec 3, 2022 18:02:28 GMT
It would great to have it done probably. I was tempted to make a hardwood block and dress some brass over it, cut out the ‘slot’ and solder the handrest on top. Not the proper job but less risk of me distorting the cover plate. Meanwhile on with the neckstick. Unlike most Dobros the back on this body is a little flexible, so I can’t use the short neckstick and block fixed to the back .This means I am going to put a neckstick similar to a biscuit cone National. Because the spider cone goes deeper into the body the neckstick is an odd shape, at the moment it hits the back, there should be some clearance when the back is back in shape. . The PlayDough is there to show me how close the cone is to the stick Pete Here is the final shape, I will probably use maple for the final stick
|
|
|
Post by pete1951 on Dec 7, 2022 11:58:11 GMT
Neck and neckstick bandsawed out of the big maple block. Next the slot for the truss rod needs cutting. Then I have to remove any wood that doesn’t feel like a guitar neck ( this is the tricky bit), and fit the heal to the body. In fact the next step is to fit the neck stick and ‘mushrooms’ . The top of this ‘test’ body is very flexible, I need to use the neckstick and some wedges to level the top before I know the exact angle of the neck. My panel beating friend is ill at the moment so I may have to fit some temporary wedges so I can get on with the project . Pete
|
|
|
Post by Michael Messer on Dec 7, 2022 13:24:46 GMT
Just a thought.... Shine On Michael
|
|
|
Post by pete1951 on Dec 7, 2022 16:40:43 GMT
Thank Michael, I now know when to stop ‘wedging’ the top up. Pete
|
|
|
Post by rich on Dec 7, 2022 17:04:17 GMT
What a great project! Look forward to seeing the finished guitar but great thread to document what and how you are doing it!
|
|
|
Post by pete1951 on Dec 12, 2022 10:47:15 GMT
While the neck still has square edges and parallel sides it is easier to work on. I think I will put in a truss rod. Before I retired I had access to a verity of woodworking machines. Now I have just a few basic tools. A router is the best thing to make grooves, and a simple jig allows me to make a neat slot. Have ordered the rod and will cut the groove when I am sure of the dimensions
|
|
|
Post by pete1951 on Jan 5, 2023 16:19:31 GMT
Truss rod in, and neck thinned down , unusually for me the maple part of the neck is parallel. Normally I would increase the depth of the neck by 1-2mm at the heal. However as the ebony finger board is so thick (almost 10mm) I am going to give it a slight wedge shape. The thicker it is at the heal and over the body the better. This will mean I will not have to ‘wedge ‘ the top up ( a common thing to do on metal body resos) I have put a small ‘volute’ on the neck, probably not really needed on a maple neck, but it will add a little strength. Christmas and New Year got in the way of more work on the body so I still can’t fit the neck, hopefully the warmer weather will let we get to the workshop without frostbite!
|
|
|
Post by pete1951 on Feb 1, 2023 18:09:10 GMT
The weather has warmed up ( for the moment at least) so time to get on. One thing that has delayed things a little is the Cover plate( see above) . It’s an original 30s/40s Dobro one that was never finished. The final pressing of the handrest was never done. At present I plan to make a ‘plug’ of the correct shape and dress some new brass over it. This would then have a couple of small lugs that would solder into slots in the top of the plate (after a slot for the bridge has been cut) . It might be possible to cut the slot , anneal the area , and beat the handrest out ( possibly into a mould)) not something I want to do as it could distort the plate.
Making male/ female moulds and using some sort of press would be best , but as I don’t have a press, and am no a tool maker I think I can rule it out.
Any one with any helpful idea out there ? Pete
|
|
|
Post by vastopol on Feb 7, 2023 15:16:55 GMT
The safest option might be to cut the neccessary hole and add a strip of brass shapped like a handrest, soldering should looks more slick, but screws are liked too for the easy access to the bridge...
|
|
|
Post by pete1951 on Feb 7, 2023 18:02:01 GMT
The safest option might be to cut the neccessary hole and add a strip of brass shapped like a handrest, soldering should looks more slick, but screws are liked too for the easy access to the bridge... I’m going for the soldering option, hope to make it this week! Pete I’m hoping it will look ( at least from a distance) like an original handrest.
|
|
|
Post by leeophonic on Feb 7, 2023 19:03:55 GMT
Another consideration is durring the Mosrite ownership of Dobro they had some coverplates where the saddle just poked through unprotected, it would depend on your playing style as to whether you are comfortable with this, although spider cone is less fragile than a biscuit cone setup.
Lee
|
|