Guitar buzz- advice requetsed

[fitchmeister]

Hi

This isn't about resonators but im hoping I can share this on this forum as I respect the knowledge of the forum and it's memebers. Other forums out there, well you just dont know who is responding.

So I have a custome built guitar that has developed a buzz/rattle and im looking for some ideas on how to resolve. The buzz appears to be from the soundboard/bridge area and it appears to be at a resonant frequency, in that if I play notes in a 3 fret range in an octave i get the buzz, i can also get the buzz, same 3 fret range, 5 frets up on the lower string. The buzz is intermittent. Over this long winter the guitar dried out considerably and I can see 2 cracks starting to develop - luckily they were noticed before they truly formed and have not actually split the wood - more like a small v in the finish.

I have taken it to a well respected luthier who recommended an intial setup and new saddle which were duly done. The guitar 'cracks to be' were checked as was the bracing and all seemd sound. I was advised to have the frets redressed if it continued. However I am not convinced that a fret dress is going to cure it as I can recreate the buzz high up on the fretboard where it meets the sounboard and there is significant relief, to my mind, making fret buzz unlikely. The bridge pin holes are a weird size in that when i replced the pins for ebony ones i had to take the pins down by hand before they would fit snugly.

The buzz/rattle only comes when finger picking - a thumb pick played harder does not induce it. And then not all the time.

I have 'rehydrated' the guitar - put it in a case with a humidifier for 2 weeks

It doesn't happen when the instrument is laid flat.

Guitar has a new bridge, reworked nut, and a peizo undersaddle pickup fitted.

Right now i am considering whether to get the bridge pin holes reamed out and fit a new set of pins (sting ball ends causing the bizz) and/or getting the 'cracks to be', bridge plate looked at further. I am reluctant to pay for a fret redress that I dont think will fix it.

Hope that makes sense? Any thoughts gratefully received.

Thanks

Roj

[davey]

Hi

If you can still get a buzz with a capo on the nut is okay. Oversized slots are a common source of buzzes.

It's worth putting a straight edge along the frets to see if you have a high one.

Put your finger on each machine head while it's buzzing and check nothing's loose.

If you have a pickup installed check the wire's not rattling..

Check the ball ends are tight in the bridge holes.

When you're re-creating the buzz up the fretboard, damp the strings one at a time to make sure they're not buzzing on the frets somewhere.

There's also a buzz diagnosis page here: www.frets.com/FretsPages/Luthier/Technique/Setup/BuzzDiagnosis/buzzintro.html

Good luck.

[bod]

Hi Roj,

Just a thought, but have you checked the surface inside of the bridge pin holes? (edit: I mean inside the body, where the holes emerge) Sometimes, even on otherwise neat guitars the finish there can be a bit rough (the Martin I used to have was quite shocking in this respect, it was as if the surface around holes were never checked or dressed post-drilling). If there are rough edges there it can cause the ball ends to sit awkwardly / misbehave, inducing rattles, but is easily sorted with gentle application of an old bit of emery board via the sound hole...

[pete1951]

To rule out the frets, I often place a pencil or similar, under the strings around the 1st fret, if it still buzzes, then its not the frets. After checking for any loose parts (m/head buttons, end pin/ strap buttons / truss rod) then it may well be a loose brace.
PT
You say its `Custom Built` ,if the maker is still around they should be happy to take a guitar back and check it

[fitchmeister]

Hi - Thanks for thr replies/suggestions - I will check them out.

Yes the original maker is still around, He's in UK and I'm in Canada, hence the post

Roj

[mikenewport]

"The buzz appears to be from the soundboard/bridge area and it appears to be at a resonant frequency, in that if I play notes in a 3 fret range in an octave i get the buzz, i can also get the buzz, same 3 fret range, 5 frets up on the lower string"



"The bridge pin holes are a weird size in that when i replced the pins for ebony ones i had to take the pins down by hand before they would fit snugly."


Hello fitchmeister, I had the the same issues recently. So here are my three suggestions.

1. Try the old pins back in there, or another set if it's a new bridge. Bridge pins can have different tapers 3 degrees and 5 degrees I think. If your new ones had to be relieved then they might not be helping the ball ends to seat.

2. To help the ball ends to seat, I slightly bend the end of the string (by the ball end) to give it a head start.

3. When the strings are on, I give each a gentle tug to ensure they are seated. The pins shouldn't need to be pressed in to firmly to achieve this.

This worked out my problems.

"new bridge, reworked nut, and a peizo undersaddle pickup fitted" This might just rrequire settling in.

"It doesn't happen when the instrument is laid flat" back braces? can you hold the guitar somehow, play the notes and press where the braces are to see if the buzz goes away.

Best of luck. Mike

[fitchmeister]

Hi

Tried the pencil trick as Pete suggested - buzz is still there - had to use a slide to get it at the right resonant frequency to buzz. Will look for another set of pins in my 'guitar stuff'

Roj

[fitchmeister]

Pins done - no change
Found loose piezo under saddle pick up end (too long) put some blutak on that - no change
G# causes the buzz
As does tapping the bridge/pins


Grover machine head stripped during tuning for some reason, and the nut made a bid for freedom also - some days I think I should stay in bed

[zak71]

Apr 24, 2014 1:24:02 GMT fitchmeister said:

As does tapping the bridge/pins

If tapping the bridge and the bridge pins triggers a buzz (assuming you are muting the strings while you tap), then you have eliminated the frets, nut, etc as the source of your buzz. Based on your description, sounds like a partially unglued brace. An area of the top no longer strengthened by bracing would be prone to warp or crack, as well. The odds of those cracks being restricted to a "small v in the finish" as per your description are slim. Chances are that there's enough humidity to keep them tight and closed for now.The cracks themselves may well be the source of the buzz, if a loose brace is not the culprit.

[fitchmeister]

Thanks - that what I am thinking

Sorry didn't mention - the "Vs" are on the back of the guitar not the sound board

I think I am learning few lessons re humidity the hard way

Roj

[zak71]

Could a brace be loose on the back of the guitar? When you say the buzz doesn't occur when the guitar is laid flat...
A loose back brace could account for both the buzz and the cracking...well, ultimately, extreme absence of humidity would.

Maybe you could do another test tapping the back of the guitar?

This is my weak attempt to inject some levity into a sad situation:

[fitchmeister]

Its not so bad - It's a guitar and it's fixable. I am a bit miffed that a repalcement tuner seems to be out of stock everywhere - cant even take it back to the luthier before that is done.

Roj

[fitchmeister]

On a positive - those nice people at Grover will replace my machine head under warranty

Roj