Model 55 Dobro or Regal/Dobro Model 19 ?

[ezra1]

I want a wood body round neck Dobro to play Spanish style and definitely Delta Blues. I have run across a refinished Model 55 from 1930/31. I would consider it a Player Grade instrument due to the refin, thus the asking price is not what I usually see them going for.
I have located 2 mid to late 30s Regal/ Dobro Model 19.
Both are in the same price range and one has had a recent neck reset which is probably a plus.
Were the Model 55's constructed better ?
Or just a bigger body?
I want to get the better choice.
Can anyone advise regarding these two models ?

[jono1uk]

Welcome to the forum ezra . do you have any links / picturea of the 2 guitars you are looking at?

[Michael Messer]

Hello Ezra1,

Welcome to our forum.

Jono is correct that seeing some photos would be very helpful.

However, I can tell you that a 1930/31 Dobro Model 55 is in a totally different class to the Regal Model 19. If the 55 is properly restored and plays well, there is no contest.

Can you tell us a bit more about this 55, maybe a photo or two?

Shine On
Michael

[gaucho]

The 19 is a cheaply made guitar (they cost about 19$ new). They usually don't have even a partial neck stick, which you'd usually want to help the tone and also to be able to do a good, less expensive neck reset if needed. I like the smaller bodied Dobros a lot, but I always look for the ones with fret markers below the 12th fret (usually 4 or 5 I think) as these indicate the presence of at least a partial neck stick. I stay clear of the dovetail neck join models, unless I can lay my hands on it and it plays and sounds excellent! Here is a photo with my Dobros. Notice the fret markers below the 12th fret. They cover up the screws for attaching the neck and indicate the presence of a neck stick...

[rbe]

I would go with the 55. The 19 typically has many corners cut to reduce cost. Although you can find examples that sound fine, they do not age as gracefully as the Dobros built like the 55. As Michael said, if done well, the 55 would be a very nice guitar. Especially if it retained all of the original components. The 19s generally use cheaper materials and construction techniques. As someone said, pictures help. I find many sellers actually have trouble identifying the proper Dobro models. The 19 can be a confusing one.

[ezra1]

I have struck a deal on the Model 55.
Not sure how to post photos.
I appreciate the help figuring this out.
Thanks

[ezra1]

I have a couple of Corcidan bottles and a 9/16 deep socket that I use.
Generally use Fender Heavy Picks and it has been suggested to me to use Dunlop Stainless Steel Picks.
Many people just finger pick and that works just fine.

[ezra1]

I spoke to Walter Carter and he said that there is a lot of relief in the neck and Spanish style playing would be difficult as is past the 3rd fret.
He is going to replace the nut and do some work on the saddle to help and also dress the frets.
He will call me tomorrow.
My local luthier who I totally trust says he could pull the frets,plane the fretboard and refret it for about $ 350 and fix that if it is necessary.
I am not unopposed to that as I am getting the guitar for $ 800 .
I still feel it would be a good deal.

[Michael Messer]

Hi ezra,

Walter Carter knows what he is doing, so I would totally trust his judgement.

I am not able to comment on whether your local luthier can do the work. However, if there is major work required, you might be better off getting Walter's luthier to do the work. $350 is probably much the same as Walter's guy would charge. I have a feeling that this could also be a neck angle issue. Looking at the photos, I can see that it has been used as a lap steel guitar with a nut raiser. These guitars have no angle on the neck. So even with a flat fretboard it might still need a neck reset.

That is a beautiful early Dobro. Make sure that the work is done by the right person.



That's a good one you have got there!

Shine On
Michael.

[rbe]

Ezra, Nice guitar. I can see that the neck has been off. Maybe when the refinish was done. The necks on vintage Nationals and Dobros take quite well to a heat pressing. Marc Schoenberger does it all of the time and gets excellent results. My opinion is that fretboard planing is plan C. But that is just the way I work. I prefer heat as A option, I would then consider removing the fretboard and planing the neck as option B.

Many old resos have relief in the neck and are still considered playable. Mr. Carter's comment of unplayable past the 3rd fret might suggests that he is either very discerning, or there is a lot of relief in the neck. A planed fretboard may end up with an unusually thin board at one end or the other. Not a result I prefer.

I agree with Michael, if the work done on the nut and saddle provide any improvement, it is very likely that there is a neck angle issue.

[ezra1]

Mr Carter called and said that replacing the nut and work on the bridge got it the desired results.
So I am stoked.
He is going to ship it Monday so it won't be in a shipping warehouse over the weekend.
It is very hot and humid in South Louisiana.

[Michael Messer]

I had a feeling Walter would sort it out for you. I am sure it is a beautiful guitar.

Tell us more when you have got it.

Shine On
Michael

[ezra1]

The guitar has a gig bag but no case.
Gator makes a Resonator Case and I think I should order one.

[ezra1]

Walter Carter shipped the Resonator today and the Case I ordered shipped too.
Both are scheduled to arrive Wednesday.
Cool....

[ezra1]

She did arrive today.
I opted to leave it in the shipping box overnight to assimilate to the Central Air Conditioning of the house.