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Post by mannylopez on Jul 26, 2014 20:18:47 GMT
Thanks again for all the comments and information. A rich history indeed. Just saw a nice 1932 Dobro in a local shop for $800. It's not a metal body, but it had a nice tone. Needed a neck reset but as said elsewhere, most do. When I am home next I will photograph the innards and post a pic. I am unable to recall the inside off the top of my head.
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Post by mannylopez on Jul 28, 2014 4:48:24 GMT
So I just looked and it appears to have the braces similar to the LumaLite that rbe posted a few comments ago. Its excessive but I dont think modifying the guitar would be wise. Id rather it sounded good, but im sure the suggestion is to preserve originality. I hope to restring it this week. Hopefully it goes well. Any advice? Things I should do before proceeding?
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Post by rbe on Jul 28, 2014 18:32:19 GMT
I agree. At his point restring it and play it. Don't mess with what is going on inside it. One other suggestion. That screw that is in the middle of the spider. Make sure it turns freely with no load. Then with everything together, tighten it until you feel resistance. From there go no more than 1/4 turn. When I get it to the point where start to feel resistance turning the screw, I strum the guitar. The sound is quite distorted until good positive contact is made. But that doesn't usually take much. If you go a 1/4 turn and it doesn't sound right. Something else is wrong. Unfortunately, many good cones have gotten screwed up by people over-adjusting that screw.
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Post by mannylopez on Jul 29, 2014 3:19:12 GMT
When the screw is into the cone and still loose, I feel like the screw is catching on the spider. Is cleaning up the hole a bit advisable to take some of the casting edges off? Should it freely pass through the spider? The cone when I had it together before was done according to your instructions. It resonated and had a tone to it that seemed to indicate it was projecting the sound. I feel personally that the design of the bracing you mentioned, the aluminum body and a low break angle just contribute to a sound that is unique to the guitar rather than one that is damaged. It makes me apprehensive about visiting a music store to fit a case, as I feel they will try to tell me something is wrong with it. Then the seed will be planted and I will be questioning it to hell.
:Biggest challenge is "Sounding Right" - alexandre's guitar is very similar (looking) to mine. I believe his has a much more resonator like tone. But he has pointed out the lack of felt ring in his as well. I dunno what "Sounding Right" would be in my case.
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Post by alexandre on Jul 29, 2014 5:39:53 GMT
Just a few words about the "sounding right" question... Although I'm not the most experienced here, I play regularly several vintage resonator guitars, and I can only tell that two examples of the same model can sound pretty different, so that there's no "pure resonator sound" or "sounding right" matter. Each instrument is different, as each player has his own feeling... Once again, I could have tried a lot of different settings on my Dobro, but finally, I've stated that it was already a fine sounding instrument and kept it like that. We have to be careful with those old & rare instruments, and remind that the best is (can be) the enemy of the good...
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Post by rbe on Jul 29, 2014 7:17:08 GMT
The screw can hang up on the spider a bit. You can carefully clean it up. Be conservative about everything you do. Take your time.
These guitars don't have a lot of break angle. They just need a little. I read an interview with John Dopyera and he said a drop of 1/8" from the saddle to the tailpiece. If there isn't any, that is because the body geometry is off. If the strings aren't popping out of the saddle slots, you have break angle.
If you have never owned a resonator guitar before, this is a tough place to start. Most people have an expectation of what a National or Dobro should sound like. A Lumalite will not fit that expectation. Your guitar will never sound like Alexandre's. You need a steel body for that.
As far as a case. I think it will fit in a common classical case. I wouldn't worry about what someone in a music shop says. Most likely they have never seen one.
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Post by mannylopez on Jul 29, 2014 18:09:28 GMT
Ive been steered towards archtop cases as they are apparently stronger and have more clearance for the resonator cover to rest. Is this true? Is it required? Seeing as its a valuable piece, I dont see the sense in cheaping out on a case, but dont want to break the bank either.
As for the sound... that is very comforting to know they all have a sound that is unique. Puts my mind at ease for sure. Much appreciated.
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Post by Michael Messer on Jul 29, 2014 20:14:32 GMT
An arch top case is completely wrong. Rik is right, you should get a classical guitar case. If you don't want to break the bank, get a Hiscox, and if that is too expensive get a good quality foam pod-type case. Any of these cases must be for a classical guitar, not for an acoustic or an arch top.
Shine On Michael
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Post by rbe on Jul 30, 2014 1:07:02 GMT
I think we are talking about a case with an arched top, as opposed to a case for an archtop. Arched-top cases are generally considered to be stronger than flat cases. But it is all relative. They both should allow for the same thickness of guitar, since they are designed to house the same style instrument. The arch resists the forces that crush the top better than a flat case. But that is assuming the other construction elements are pretty much the same. If all you are going to need the case for is to store the guitar at home and an occasional trip out. No need to go crazy. I am not familiar with the brands Michael suggested. But I'm sure he knows what he is talking about. If you are in the US, you can probably find something for under $100. Good luck.
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Post by mannylopez on Aug 2, 2014 16:50:47 GMT
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Post by rbe on Aug 2, 2014 20:51:05 GMT
My view is these cases are fine for storage and when you are 100% in control of the guitar's handling when you are in transit. If travel handling is an issue, buy a more fitted case. I would start with what NRP sells. They are twice the price, but guitars are shipped all over the world in those. When you travel, a little extra padding using towels or t-shirts never hurts. The headstock is a weak point. So support it.
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Post by snakehips on Aug 2, 2014 21:32:55 GMT
Hi there !
I often see people advising a case designed for classical guitars, for National guitars.
However, Classical/Spanish guitars tend to have quite deep bodies, compared to Nationals - especially 12-fret neck Nationals.
I find that some Nationals in these type of cases, don't sit right in the cases. The neck sits to heavily on the neck rest and the headstock sticks up to high, at an upwards angle, instead of parallel with the case. A sure recipe for neck or headstock break.
Be careful out there folks !
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Post by rbe on Aug 2, 2014 23:16:57 GMT
With a fiddle-edge, you just have to do the best you can. No one makes a case for them. Classical cases come the closest. I have bought classical cases for mine and had good luck. If the guitar doesn't fit, just make sure you can return it. If the case suffers from the problem Snakehips mentioned, then see if there is room to put a pad under the body. One thing to consider is, the body on a Lumalite is lightweight so it will not create the same force that a body made of heavier material does when the case is jarred.
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Post by snakehips on Aug 3, 2014 9:58:13 GMT
Hi again !
Placing something soft under the body does indeed bring the neck flatter in the case - but it also raises the coverplate and handrest closer to the lid. This , I think, is bringing the coverplate and cone closer to potential harm if the case gets a knock. And, the body can still sink downwards, into the soft material, see-saw'ing the headstock upwards and still risking a neck or headstock fracture.
If possible, I prefer to either adjust the case's neck support - which is fairly easy to do if it is just styrofoam under the velvet "upholstery" (by squashing down on it with something hard to compress it to a lower level), or, decide NOT to buy that case and get another one instead.
And if by doing this, there is too much space between the case lid the top of the guitar, you can stick small cushions (any soft-ish material) to the lid to sit against the edges of the body, in places that will not push on the coverplate - like they have in Calton cases - eg. Either side of the tailpiece.
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Post by mannylopez on Aug 4, 2014 0:27:34 GMT
So I strung it back up with a set of 12's. The high action made 13's a lil tough on my wimpy fingers. The photo shows the 12th fret action. Snapped a few pics inside. Definitely smashed together. You can see the cardboard that was mentioned as well as the whack load of bracing to keep the body form. The placement of the endpin is laughable. Drilled a hole way off from the one in the metal... dunno where this one was built. It has a Dobro serial number though. As well... I bought a case today. Was $74.95 an archtopped classical case. Made by TKL. Pretty nice for what it is. Feels much safer having the case. You have all been super helpful. I dont think I will do much to this. Maybe take it for a bit more setup work once I get the funds and find a shop that can do the work well.
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