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Post by Wyzzy93 on Feb 26, 2013 22:32:06 GMT
Having acquired some new hard rock maple saddles I am wondering what the best way is to cut the string slots? Any pictures anywhere that I could take a look at?
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Post by Brad Bechtel on Mar 1, 2013 0:10:08 GMT
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Post by Wyzzy93 on Mar 1, 2013 22:58:47 GMT
I was looking for a cheaper alternative to buying files I spoke to Robin at Busker Guitar the other day and he gave me some excellent suggestions. Thank you.
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Post by Stevie on Mar 2, 2013 1:41:04 GMT
Those feeler gauges wont cut anything but they will act as a very good stop to prevent cutting / filing too deep if you hit a softer spot in the material (which happens with bone)
It is often suggested to use welding nozzle tip cleaners, but alone they are too flexible. One Forum member has made what amounts to a tiny frame to hold these blades, and used like that, they have to be the most inexpensive solution if cost is of real concern. I'd still advise caution without some form of holder if doing anything more than a minor adjustment to an existing slot though. Perhaps they are OK for a saddle where you aren't going as deep as you would in a nut?
Also, the luthiers amongst us (not I!) would point out that it is not simply a matter of making free with the cutting / filing tool, you need to angle the slots to prevent string binding and / or deadening, and you should try to ensure that you have full radius bottoms to avoid strings sticking in wedge or square shaped slots.
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Post by andys on Mar 2, 2013 11:11:40 GMT
One of the best investments I made was a set of these dedicated, graded nut and saddle slot cutting files. Not cheap at the time, but they have paid for themselves many times over.
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Post by Wyzzy93 on Mar 3, 2013 11:32:43 GMT
Well all the above said, I had a crack at with some files, a scalpel, sand paper and some old strings, it worked out okay. This is the first go, but I'll have a couple of other goes with the spare blanks I have. I basically copied the original bridge. Sounds nice. I am still open to any advice, this is a learning experience. Those files look very snazzy Andy! Attachments:
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Post by slide496 on Mar 3, 2013 12:38:25 GMT
For reference - Here's a photo of how the luthier I sent my johnny winter 3/4 size to did it - the slots have a v shape and I thought you might be interested in seeing it. I have no idea as to whether one style is considered better than the other - he cut a replacement nut for the machine first and then respaced the strings accordingly so its all equidistant from the ends. The sound was much improved when it was returned. As noted below, though, the slots are in the wrong direction. Attachments:
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Post by Michael Messer on Mar 3, 2013 12:48:37 GMT
Harriet's luthier did the job correctly. The straight slots are fine and lots of resonator guitars have them, but there is a better sound from V shaped slots.
Shine On Michael
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Post by Wyzzy93 on Mar 3, 2013 18:48:32 GMT
Harriet, thanks so much for the picture, that is what I was hoping to see. I had read about cutting V shaped slots but I had assumed that the V would be facing in the other direction towards the neck not towards the tail so the string could vibrate in the gap. I will try and replicate something similar on one of the other blanks I have. Are the slot ever the other direction Michael?
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Post by Michael Messer on Mar 3, 2013 19:00:52 GMT
Hi wyzzy,
You are correct that the slots should open out towards the neck.
If you are in any doubt about how to get the V slots right, leave them straight, because if it is not done right the string will not sit properly and will buzz. I am sure there is an instruction somewhere on the Internet about how to do it.
Shine On Michael
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Post by slide496 on Mar 3, 2013 19:07:27 GMT
Thanks for the observation wyzzy and correction as confirmed by Michael as well - I don't know much about this kind of thing and am happy to learn. Also glad you didn't cut this the wrong direction will note on post
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Post by oldpicker on Mar 4, 2013 9:52:00 GMT
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Post by bluesdude on Mar 4, 2013 22:04:02 GMT
For reference - Here's a photo of how the luthier I sent my johnny winter 3/4 size to did it - the slots have a v shape and I thought you might be interested in seeing it. I have no idea as to whether one style is considered better than the other - he cut a replacement nut for the machine first and then respaced the strings accordingly so its all equidistant from the ends. The sound was much improved when it was returned. As noted below, though, the slots are in the wrong direction. the slots veed out this way is not the wrong way if your me,Bob Brozman, and many other people I've come across!LOL Kenny,
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Post by Michael Messer on Mar 5, 2013 10:35:44 GMT
There appears to be some confusion about this subject....well I am certainly confused! I 'think' I have always been under the impression that the V opens towards the neck and I think I got this information from Bob many years ago. However, I don't think that any of my guitars have bridge saddles cut in this way.
Before making any more comments and digging myself in deeper, I am going to do some research and return to this thread when I am more sure of my facts.
Shine On Michael
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Post by snakehips on Mar 5, 2013 12:31:18 GMT
Hi there ! That hacksaw type thing to fit the cheap files looks far too heavy/ungainly to make delicate and fine adjustments, in a controlled manner. It looks too heavy and top- heavy for starters. I have a set of the very same Stewmac files that andys shows and they are pound-for-pound the best investment - and they wil do a very professional precise job, every time. Don't waste your time and money with cheap rubbish that you will end up spoiling a saddle on. And then have to splash out a second time to buy a proper set. By you buying a number of saddles, it sounds like you want to work on more than one guitar - you owe it to those guitars to get yourself the right tools. I've used mine so many times, for instance, when NRP brought out the HotRod cones, I set about installing new cones and saddles myself with these files, and with a few other tools got all my guitars set up to my own preferences. I've worked on a few of my pals' guitars too. One was installing a NRP 10.5" cone and Highlander biscuit (with pickup) into a friend's Dobro. Another was working on my bandmate's Beltona renecked National Triolian, when his saddle suffered a chunk out of one end, so that the 1st string wouldn't hold in it's slot as one side of the slot had disappeared ! Glued a new piece of wood on, filed it flush, cut a new 1st string slot (with the Stewmac file) and black felt tip pen'd the bare wood - sorted ! It helps to measure ALL your guitars first, and even any guitars of your mates, that "play like butter" to you, to find out what YOU want in a set-up, then set up your guitars like that. If you know what you want, then you stand a better chance knowing what to aim for. Indespensible but not too expensive items you will get YEARS of use out of, can be obtained here : . Choose your file sizes carefully with the string guages you use. You want a file the same size as the string or slightly larger, not smaller (or the string will be too tight in the slot) www.stewmac.com/shop/Tools/Speci ... Files.html A great tool to make sure you get your slots evenly spaced is this : www.stewmac.com/shop/Tools/Speci ... ws#reviews You won't believe how easy this makes things - AFTER you have used it. You will only fully appreciate why to buy it after you have used it. Another indispensable tool - for measuring string height : www.stewmac.com/shop/Tools/Strai ... 1&xsr=2003 6 files, String Spacing Rule and String Action Guage - total cost circa $117 plus shipping BUT these items will see lots of action over the years, I promise ! All the above are purely my own thoughts, but largely based on real experiences as a non-luthier, but someone with a keen eye for detail. Next guitar I work on, I'm gonna use my Dental Loupes, with 3x magnification and headlight !
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