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Post by snakehips on Oct 19, 2022 14:15:48 GMT
Hi there ! Having spotting some info on repairing cases, by MM on the thread about the cast-aluminium lap steel bought recently by another forum member, it has sparked me into thinking about repairing the very cool faux-alligator covering cardboard case that came with my 1954 Silvertone 1361 electric guitar. It's a cool guitar and the case is v cool too - but it's falling apart - mainly the lid top sides are falling to bits and detaching from the main part of the lid. I wondered if anyone has good wisdom on how to approach this. As you will see from the pictures, I have the bulk of the bits broken off - but a fair bit has crumbled at the points where the case edges disintegrated - so there will be some gaps. The case is lined inside with some sort of smooth velvet, almost a faux suede - best preserved on the very cute, shallow plectrum pocket (well, not much else would fit in there !!! My thoughts are maybe use Super-Glue to approximate bits together, just to hold the various pieces in position, while I try to strengthen and bond all parts together more. If anyone knows which type of glue would be best, that would be great. Something that sets fast would be cool, as trying to hold parts together in the correct position/angle is difficult, while the bits try to bend away from each other - this would be tedious of I had to hold parts together for hours ! I was thinking of adding a new lining inside, which would hopefully add a layer inside that holds everything together. MM mentioned painting layers of Unibond, which I suspect turns rock-hard and clear, after giving it plenty time to set. In the meantime, here is my guitar & it's original case, which all nicely fits inside a padded gig bag : Any advice
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Post by snakehips on Oct 19, 2022 14:37:09 GMT
Oh, and lots of bits are flaking off, inside my padded case used to carry the guitar in it's original cardboard case - see pic. Also see pic of the back of the case, which is mostly in good shape structurally.
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Post by snakehips on Oct 19, 2022 14:46:57 GMT
On looking more, it actually looks like the faux-leather edging strip, that the top and side skirt are stitched to, is the thing that is deteriorating the most., rather than the cardboard. Might be easier to remove all the stitching and use a new (fake) leather & stitch it all together ? (If I had the skills and know-how to do it !!). But finding the correct chocolate brown material might be impossible !
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Post by pete1951 on Oct 19, 2022 14:51:54 GMT
Looks like a job for the ‘Repair Shop’. Though they usually only mend stuff that once belonged to your grandmother and it was her last wish to get it fixed.
I think I might try to line the edge with something strong but thin, canvas or linen ,probably using a flexible glue ( evostic or PVA) . The lining would be about an inch wider than the side ,and glue to the lid. Hopefully this will not make the lid too small.
Then there would be the tedious job of sewing (and gluing?) a leather/PVC corner strip around the edge
Pete
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Post by snakehips on Oct 19, 2022 15:46:09 GMT
Yeah, finding the right orangy-brown PVC leatherette could be quite tricky. I’ve certainly thought about lining the inside of the side-lip with a strip of something to stick the separate lengths together again, then glue to the lid.
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Post by slide496 on Oct 19, 2022 17:48:51 GMT
Here's a website from 2013 by Steve Kirtley, He posted pictures of restoration progress but it's not a tutorial... maybe some ideas you can use. www.stevekirtley.org/caserepair.htmGood luck with the project if you decide to do it, HArriet
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Post by Michael Messer on Oct 19, 2022 19:10:53 GMT
Richard, the Unibond method was something I was told about many years ago. I repaired and restored a rather sad case which is still going strong 31 years later, and it has been used a lot. I also relined it with a nice thick material similar to Calton cases and padded areas of it with thin kitchen sponges before the actual lining was done. This was copied from the way I had seen Keith Calton lining cases. The lining has lasted very well.
Layers of Unibond certainly creates a strong case, but be aware that it dries shiny. I have not done it on a case like yours, but I do have a couple of those that could do with a bit of TLC. Maybe someday. I forget how many coats of Unibond I used, but it was quite a few inside and out.
I think I would strengthen your the top and back of your case with some thin plywood cut to the exact shape, Then I would Unibond and line it.
Something to do while you're waiting for impressions and local anaesthetics to do their thing 🦷🦷🦷🕺🏻💃🏻😎
Shine On Michael
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Post by snakehips on Oct 19, 2022 21:40:44 GMT
Hi Michael,
Local Anaesthetic works in about 5mins, I we take a lot of digital impressions these days (with a 3D scanner camera).
I did make for my 11yr old boy, following a youtube “how to” video, a Mandelorian helmet (Star Wars character), spraying the outside of the helmet with titanium metallic paint - then some coats of Ronseal matt “exterior varnish”. The body of the helmet was cardboard, then covered in a gew layers of paper-mache, sanded smooth, metallic spray paint, then the varnish. It set nice and hard but with a little flex, and fairly invisible and non-shiny. I could try that. Not got a decent picture of it.
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Post by Michael Messer on Oct 20, 2022 7:47:38 GMT
Hi Michael, Local Anaesthetic works in about 5mins, I we take a lot of digital impressions these days (with a 3D scanner camera) I am of course aware of both of those as I have had numerous local anaesthetics and in recent times a few digital impressions and scans. I was just winding you up. I don't know if Ronseal is as strong as Unibond, but it might be worth a try. Shine On Michael
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Post by davey on Oct 20, 2022 9:29:14 GMT
I would use a hot glue gun to re-assemble the case. The glue sets very quickly but it's a bit stringy so be careful. It also needs the parts holding in place until it sets. I repaired my 1933 Style O case a few years ago and it's lasted very well.
It would be worth putting a reinforcing strip over the repair as "strain relief". I glued on some tolex type material with copydex which is easier to work with. Maybe thin leather would work.
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Post by snakehips on Oct 20, 2022 9:42:01 GMT
Hi Davey !
I've got a decent hot-glue gun, actually. I used it to build my boy's Mandalorian helmet, from lots of smaller cardboard pieces. I find it difficult getting just enough glue and not too much - ending up with globules of glue that are difficult to remove.
Some thinking to do ! I think I might look for some PVC type brown material first - not that I fancy my hand at sewing ! Thanks !
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Post by slide496 on Oct 20, 2022 12:07:42 GMT
Just to mention that there are some craft glues - Ive used a product called Fabri-tac for repair of an ikea office chair where the bottom decorative non-woven fabric became detached from the plastic and also to replace part of a couch seat underneath the cushion and the mended items have held up. There's also one that is highly reviewed online for bonding a variety of materials from felt to foam and jewelry called Aleene's Fast Grab Tacky Glue (I haven't tried this though.)
The other diy things that might be considered are - they make a flexible ruler that you can mold to the case, or Kraft Paper under the case and traced - it comes in rolls and also there is a 1 inch rigid foam board that cuts very easily with a utility knife called FOMULAR - that might be easy to construct a temporary holding mold out of but it can warp like regular foamboard.
Best to All, Harriet
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Post by davey on Oct 20, 2022 13:27:50 GMT
The trick is to tack the parts together with small blobs like welders do, not make a continuous line.
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Post by snakehips on Oct 20, 2022 18:12:03 GMT
Think I'm gonna replace the faux leather edging that holds the top to the side lip. If that goes well, I might even replace the back.
Leather stitching kit with needles, hole gadgets and different colours of thick thread - £10 Section of leatherette enough for my needs, about the right colour, circa £8. New Faux-suede in camel colour, for the internal lining - circa £10 Some elbow grease, blood (hopefully not !), sweat & tears (probably !) and I might managed to get a nice result. Real fear ? I get started, find problems with the materials, or difficulty in the stitching - and never finish it !!
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Post by maui_chimes on Oct 24, 2022 13:18:43 GMT
For a quick and dirty solution, you might try some brown bookbinding tape. It is a heavy duty cloth tape and the color will be a reasonable match. No stitching or gluing required.
Otherwise you can buy some fake leather material from a fabric or craft store and then try to stitch it back together.
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