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Post by bonzo on Aug 27, 2021 10:08:31 GMT
Hi everyone. I've got a lovely KG14 that I've had for a few years now, strung with Newtone heritage 11's tuned to open D.
It has a high action, 5mm at 12th fret sixth string. No problem fretting and I mostly slide anyway. The neck is straight and the high action seems to be caused by 'bellying' of the top around the bridge.
It's still ladder braced by the way.
It has been stable as long as I've had the guitar no signs of the top pulling away or anything like that.
What I was concerned about was if it was likely to remain stable going forward.
I've read on the forum about hide glues failing over time and was wondering if there was any way I could prevent this from happening ie reinforce the existing glue without major surgery.
I'm happy with the guitar as it is and wouldn't really want to consider X bracing, it's all in original condition and I'd like to keep it that way.
On the other hand I don't want to wake up one morning and find it's pulled itself apart!
Your thoughts and suggestions as always would be greatly appreciated.
Best wishes to you all, John
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Post by davey on Aug 27, 2021 10:31:50 GMT
Hi John,
I've had two KG14's and had them both X braced, which flattened the top and made them sound much better. The problem is that the tops are thin and the twisting motion of the pin bridge eventually makes the soundboard distort.
Another option would be to fit a "bridge doctor" which counteracts the twisting motion. I haven't tried it but a repairman I know says they do work and also improve the sound as they relax the soundboard.
I would still go for the X bracing, mine were done by removing the back & there was no obvious signs of repair at the end. They sounded exactly like my 1933 L-00.
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Post by bonzo on Aug 27, 2021 10:45:13 GMT
Hi Dave.
Perhaps X bracing is something I should consider after all. I know it's not a procedure you would have entered into lightly, I know we have similar thoughts on keeping things original.
When you had the X bracing done did you also have the rest of the 'glue work' checked out? Was this recently? Is the luthier still around? I trust your opinion as to the merits of X bracing especially if it gives a guitar a new lease of life.
Any more help and advice greatly appreciated. 🙂👍🎸
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Post by davey on Aug 27, 2021 13:05:36 GMT
Hi John
The Luthier I used is retired now. I know a good Luthier in Stockport and a chap in Coventry who fits the Bridge Doctor. Let me know if that's any help. I'll message you the name of another Luthier who's recommended in the South.
Cheers DT
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Post by bonzo on Aug 27, 2021 16:41:56 GMT
Thanks Davey. 😊👍🎸
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Post by bonzo on Aug 27, 2021 17:23:16 GMT
I'll post this as it may be of interest.
Davey mentioned the bridge doctor in his post so I looked them up having never heard of them. An interesting piece of kit. Anyone used it? It looks straightforward enough to install but I can't see how it works in pulling the belly down. Unless I'm missing the point completely (wouldn't be the first time) it looks like it would actually push the bridge up. Perhaps I should have mentioned I watched a couple of installation videos. Any thoughts? Have you used or installed one?
Best wishes to you all, John
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Post by The Beltona Kid on Aug 29, 2021 0:39:33 GMT
Hello Bonzo, I've owned a very early ultra thin KG-11 for 31 years. It has a significant amount of bellying and its always been there. I would not touch a thing on your guitar and the 11's should work fine. Slide on.
TBK
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Post by bonzo on Aug 29, 2021 5:52:42 GMT
Hi TBK and welcome to the forum.
I agree with you. I have decided to leave my lovely KG14 alone.
The only reason I was considering any work on it was that I was concerned about the guitar pulling itself apart if the glue used should weaken.
I'm now pretty sure that's unlikely to happen and hopefully the guitar will remain stable for years to come.
Thanks for the advice everyone. 😊😎👍🎸
Best wishes to you all, John
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Post by davey on Aug 29, 2021 12:37:37 GMT
I haven't used one but my pal is a big fan. There are two bolts which fit through the bridge behind the bridge pins, then a rod at right angles which touches the end block. As you extend the rod over a few days it rotates the bridge towards the tail i.e. the opposite direction the the pull of the strings. The bolts get covered by a standard pearl dot. Cheers, Davey
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