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Post by gushtone on Jul 27, 2020 20:39:41 GMT
Hi all, This lovely found its way to me on Friday: Click this link: 1937 Dobro M-32 Frosted Duco GoldIt sounds lovely and is oozing the right kind of vibe for sure, and is well played from the look of it, but with love largely, as there is no sign of serious or careless abuse. In my completely uneducated opinion it needs some serious work on the neck. There is about .060 - .075 relief on the neck, the break angle over the saddle is very shallow even though the saddle is fairly tall (e.g. if there was some break angle to work with, the saddle could be shaved considerably before approaching the point of no return). It plays finger style well in the first 4-5 frets then gets rather ugly as it goes up. I always mix slide and finger style so really need it to play well finger style up and down the neck. So, my luthier tells me he is happy to work on it and has a fair amount of experience with Nationals. I trust him implicitly, but these things are so unique, and so finicky, I was wondering if anyone could recommend a Dobro expert in Philly or within an hour or two's drive (NY, Baltimore/DC, etc). At least this way I will have options if I do not like what my guy has to say when I show it to him. Also happy to have, and would greatly appreciate, any tips and information the community is willing to share. I used to have a 30's National Style-O (which I greatly regret selling) and this is my first ever Dobro. I will not be without another resonator again, and hopefully will add another National soon. In the meantime, I want to get this beauty playing as good as possible. Note, I have not taken it apart and do not plan to. Also, would be curious to know how much vintage resonator repairs typically cost. They are, for lack of a better way to put it, different than more "traditional" guitar repairs. Thanks! Stay safe and be well. Peace...
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Post by Pickers Ditch on Jul 28, 2020 7:22:58 GMT
Welcome to the forum Gushtone.
Nice guitar.
I'm in the UK so can't help re the reso luthier question but someone on here will point you in the right direction.
Out of interest, what's the serial number on yours?
PD
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Post by davey on Jul 28, 2020 8:38:25 GMT
Hi
The break angle doesn't look bad to me, it needs to be "as shallow as doesn't buzz" in my opinion. I would take the bridge saddle down by 2mm / .075 inches (from the bottom) and see how it plays.
If that doesn't work, you might consider removing the relief in the neck, but I don't believe a neck reset is needed. My repair guy would put it in a heat press but not everybody in the repair business has got one.
Cheers, Davey
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Post by gushtone on Jul 28, 2020 11:57:03 GMT
Thanks for the feedback PD and Daley. Much appreciated. I will look at taking the saddle down a bit, but will probably get it in front of my luthier first. Although I do quite a bit of basic setup work on my electrics and sometimes on acoustics, I did take apart the National and tune it up so to speak, and that worked out pretty well, so maybe I will give this a go before sending it off for repair.
Serial no is L91xx.
I have read that the heat press approach can produce results that are short lived. Anyone care to comment on that?
On a completely unrelated question, what type of strings do you all like to use on your reso’s? Are there Resonator specific string brands out there? Or boutique Ones you prefer or recommend? Apologies for my ignorance, been playing guitar forever but have only dabbled in resonators...
Peace...
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Post by Michael Messer on Jul 28, 2020 13:15:19 GMT
Hi Gushtone Welcome to our forum. You are being well advised by Davey and PD. The guitar looks great to me, I'm not sure that it needs much doing to it all. However, if you do decide to get some work done, be very careful who you give it to. Regarding the serial number; by telling us that it is L91xx, you are not protecting anything except the history from being understood properly. The only way we can track the history of these instruments is by collecting serial numbers and details of each instrument, and over time with research, that is what opens up the story to us. Serial numbers are the "track & trace" of the National and Dobro world. It is only with those numbers that it is possible to decode exactly what was built, when it was built, how many were built and where it was built. It would be most helpful pdf you could post a photo of the serial number, just so we can all be sure that it is being read correctly. I don't know anybody local to you, but the US's leading repairer of resophonic instruments is Marc Schoenberger. www.nationalguitarrepair.comThanks for sharing your guitar with us Shine On Michael
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Post by Pickers Ditch on Jul 28, 2020 13:45:57 GMT
Me again. Just had a closer look at your pictures and I notice that there is a one piece saddle on it. Mine and others I have seen have a two piece saddle so's you can adjust the cone tension throgh the central screw which is accessed through the bridge cover hole. I may be wrong, but you may be able to fine tune the sound if you change to a two piece saddle so's you can tweak accordingly.
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Post by gushtone on Jul 28, 2020 15:03:09 GMT
Hi Michael & PD. Thanks for your welcome wishes and your responses. Serial number is L9126. Sorry, force of habit obscuring serial when selling/trading gear online.
Note, there is a screw below the hole on the cover plate, but will look more closely when I take it apart. It sounds like a simple sanding of the back of my saddle may improve play-ability considerably, so I am going to give that a shot.
Also, can anyone recommend a good source for parts like saddles and such? I assume StewMac but was wondering if there are any specialty dealers out there. I may need tuners at some point (soon) as well), and would like to maintain the same footprint.
Be safe... Thanks!
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Post by gushtone on Jul 28, 2020 16:25:06 GMT
Note: I just added several images to the link, including the Serial No. I would love anyone with knowledge to view the last picture which shows a better view of the warp of the neck. I personally think it is considerable and requires attention. Would love to hear other opinions, and if folks have had success just dropping the saddle down in situations like this and avoided neck work. It does not look promising to me, especially given the very high action.
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Post by Michael Messer on Jul 28, 2020 16:42:59 GMT
Hi Gushtone, Just a quick reply... Thank you for the serial number. It all helps its to build a proper history of this stuff. I can now see that your guitar does require some work from a luthier. My advice would be to call one of the following people... Marc Schoenberger. He is not local to you so it will have to be shipped, but he is the best on your side of the pond and you won't regret it. You might also be interested in talking with Rik Besser at B.Fanatic Guitarworks. Rik's work on fiddle edge M32 instruments is superb. I think Rik would also take on the repair work and he knows his stuff too. www.bfanaticguitarworks.com/?lens_portfolio=1935-gold-dobro-m32Rik and Marc are my only recommendations on your side of the pond. Your guitar would be in totally safe hands with either of these guys. Keep us posted with your progress. Shine On Michael
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Post by Pickers Ditch on Jul 28, 2020 16:58:54 GMT
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Post by leeophonic on Jul 28, 2020 17:40:35 GMT
Be careful with some of the advice bouncing around, a one piece saddle is appropriate to a fiddle edge with an offset spider bridge, that looks to be yours. Two piece saddles are appropriate to the central spider, it is all a question of scale length. National Guitar repair (Marc Schoenberger is the best advice you have recieved if you want to keep it as is, Rik Besser if you fancy a refresh) Regards Lee
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Post by bonzo on Jul 28, 2020 17:52:01 GMT
Mmmmmmmm shiny!
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Post by Pickers Ditch on Jul 28, 2020 18:01:44 GMT
Be careful with some of the advice bouncing around, a one piece saddle is appropriate to a fiddle edge with an offset spider bridge, that looks to be yours. Thanks Lee, just learned something - it's bl88dy obvious if I'd given it a bit of thought.
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Post by washboardchris on Jul 28, 2020 20:14:18 GMT
The trick with the tension screw is unwind the screw till it buzzes and then turn it till it stops.If you overturn thge screw you can warp the cane
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Post by gushtone on Jul 28, 2020 21:44:04 GMT
Thanks all for all of your help and input, I reached out to both Rik and Marc, and Rik referred me to Mark. Waiting to hear back. Unfortunately that will add $200+ in shipping costs to/from, but I am leaning that way because it is a nice guitar, with a really nice, fat soft V neck and a gorgeous tone. Unfortunately it plays rather poorly.
I promise to post pics of the finished product after it is playing proper-like.
Peace...
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