This is the place to ask Michael Messer and other forum members questions relating to National, Dobro and other resophonic musical instruments. Also questions and comments relating to National, Dobro, Supro, Valco amplifiers. No commercial advertising. To ask Mark Makin questions about anything in the Palm Trees, Senoritas & Rocket Ships thread, start a new thread in National Avenue
Aside from looking a little ugly, I think they are actually a great idea. Do your own measurements folks (I have numerous times) - the front edge of the nut is generally where the 'zero' is supposed to start, but it doesn't always, depending where the apex of the cut is. You may have a couple of mm intonation error...
The lastest innovation? The Zero-Fret Adjustable Nut on 2015 Model Year Gibsons (patent applied for). The benefits of Z-FAN are many. A new Plek program for fingerboard setup allows using lower fret wire, the low action obtainable with the Z-FAN allows for more accurate intonation. When you press down on the string, it can "travel" only so far below the fret. This results in a minimal pitch change when fretting strings.
Z-FAN also increases sustain, because a traditional nut absorbs more of the vibration than a fret. The tone is also a little brighter, and there's a more consistent tone between the open string and a fretted string.
Post by Pickers Ditch on Jul 25, 2015 16:37:49 GMT
I tried this idea on a Fender Precision Bass in 1968 having "upgraded" from a Hofner bass with a zero fret. After several attempts I gave up. Reasons? Problems with first three frets high action. Problems with intonation on lowest four frets. The major problem was due to the fact that the depth of the nut was insufficient for the sideways playing / fretting pressure of bass strings and the nut slots cracked up when I got into excited playing mode. OK, it was a long time ago and I only used the polymers available at the time for the nut; maybe there are better ones out there now.... However, you pays yer money and makes yer choice.
I think I'd run into that as well but for slide throughout maybe not.
I like the first example with the l -shape bone nut and the metal bar set into that - it looks offhand safer than the metal Gibson which I don't know if your into extreme bending of notes is such a good idea, unless those slots are rounded and then how easy is it to customize.
My favorite (and now only) electric has a zero fret. I've had a couple other guitars with zero frets, and I just think they make more sense than a standard nut. I forgot about these Zero glides - I'm definitely going to install one on my new reso.
Nice, but like everything else on StewMac way overpriced... Probably could make one at home with a sliver of rosewood, a fret and thin piece of bone material...
Heh....for some reason Stewmac gave me prices in pounds, I was reading in dollars -- 30 dollars (which doesn't include tax and shipping) is indeed a lot for what this is, especially since from what the comments say, there's still a lot of work to do making the fit.
The Gibson system looks as if it might give some advantages. The ZerO however has only 3 sizes of fret to use, StewMc. have about 10 fret sizes so your ZerO kit will not give you `perfect` action unless it matches your guitar. It also says it reduces friction area by about 90%, then it claims it reduces friction by 90% . I have 6 zero fret guitars, and if the zero fret is the same size as the rest of the frets it will give you the lowest action. It does look an easy fit, and may well give a `better` first fret action than most jobs done by someone who has not done a lot of work on guitars, but unless they make it adjustable (like the Gibson) only 3 sizes of fret is not enough .....there may be some details of fitting I have missed (some file work is talked about in the video) but I do not see how it will work without 20 or so frets going up in .001" at a time , .035" (a low fret) to .055" (a very tall fret) PT
Hello new member here. I've been using the zero glide nuts on most of my acoustic and electric guitars and find them to be very practical from a setup perspective. I do my own setups and customization for personal use and liked the concept of 'eliminating the string height at the nut' when working to get the neck and bridge parameters. I'm new to resonator guitars and have recently acquired one to refurbish and intend on using the zero glide. My style of play is currently fretted notes versus slide and prefer a low action with a straight neck allowing the relief adjustment via truss rod to accommodate environmental changes. I have found that using the offset tanged fret wire slightly higher than the first fret works best (approx .003 - .005 inches; more for hard playing. If the stock sizes aren't suitable you can always file down the zero fret, re-crown, and end dress. The folks at Gold Tone who make the zero glide are great and are very helpful if needed. Note that you can typically buy these on Amazon at 50% cost. I'll get an intro post in the National forum area along with lots of resonator guitar setup questions and look forward to working with all of you. Regards
I've got a Gold Tone with the zeroglide & I find the strings to be too LOW between the nut & 1st fret. Does that mean I'd have to get a new zeroglide & start from scratch for string height at nut? Or would a thin shim under the nut work?
I used to have a Fylde Goodfellow with a zero fret.It was a great little picker but I don't know how much the zero fret was responsible.This is what Roger Bucknall of Fylde Guitars has to say in this LINK Roger is a master luthier and is always happy to discuss any aspect of his guitars and answer questions.
IRT the strings being too low at the first fret, you should just be able to use a higher fret wire unless you are saying that there is not enough height to the slots. The fret wire must have the offset tang and you can get the wire from Gold Tone without having to also replace the nut. The slots are only controlling lateral string alignment/spacing but with the higher fret wire the strings come out of the slot you'll have to replace the nut. When you talk to Gold Tone ask them their advice on slot depth. Usual rule of thumb for a regular nut slot depth is 1/2 of the string minus a little maybe. I would think that the optimal slot depth is just shy of the outer string diameter allowing the string to vibrate freely but also not jump out of the slot during play. With the zero glide does the same rule apply measured from the top of the zero fret up 1/2 of the string? Although I do shape and polish my zero glides, I haven't experimented with 'optimizing' the slot depth. Curious.