Hi , Planning on cutting my truss rod down and re-welding. But to what length? I'm thinking 10-20mm before the tenon to keep it intact and strong as possible. Can a truss rod be too short? Does anyone have any ideas or fitted one before, would be interesting to know. (Again I'm probably worrying too much) Thanks
Because I don't like truss rod covers I make an access via the neck stick. The disadvantage is indeed that the neck has to be removed when you want to adjust the truss rod, but from experience I know that with a well-adjusted guitar this is rather a rarity.
Fingerboard support is because I don't like hiding screws in the fretboard either..
Older Busker and MM trust rods finish at about the 11th fret ( on 12 fret to the body guitars) they have double action rods with 4mm Allan key adjustment.
I also prefer no truss rod cover and end of neck adjustment, after the setup I rarely need to tweak the rod and am happy to have it hidden away ( even though it means removing strings etc. to adjust) It also leaves some strength around the nut area which is a weak point on most necks
Wow! Thats some really clean work. I think I will probably have adjustment at the nut as I am fixing the fretboard down through the body , does anybody glue a thin piece of wood in below the nut for support? I might shorten the truss rod so that the middle sits on the 6th fret where its most likely to warp.
Can you not access the truss rod with the coverplate off ??
I've had 3 vintage Nationals restored by Steve Evans in this way. Truss rod completely hidden from view. He drilled a small hole in the side of the well to poke the Allen key through to the Truss Rod. Never had to adjust it though !!!
Ahh yes . I did think about it this morning but went for the adjuster at the nut. The screws through the fretboard would get in the way of the truss rod. Although I wish I would've done it that way now because the depth for the end of the truss was 12mm!!!!
Anyway , all done now and fretboard is glued. Turned out well i think