Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Apr 15, 2021 15:46:50 GMT
In my quest to sort this collegian coverplate out, by chance (I walked into his workshop) I came across a chap who makes motorcycle fuel tanks. The thing that caught my eye was an 'english wheel' - I guess some of you will have seen / used one. So I've just gone and got this then, and I have some coverplate sized discs on the way. And so I'm gonna try and make coverplates... TT
|
|
|
Post by Pickers Ditch on Apr 15, 2021 16:46:24 GMT
Keep your fingers out of the way - it hurts!
|
|
|
Post by Stevie on Apr 15, 2021 19:31:59 GMT
That's a teensy weensy wheel TT! I used to work alongside a guy who had worked at AC Cars (and I think Panther too) who could take a sheet of metal and wheel up a car wing if required. A level of metal working skill that is other-worldly to me! Get some scrap and practise because there's a lot to it. I worked in sheet metal most of my manual days and still regard wheeling as a black art. I used to use our wheel to make neat and tidy Dutch folds but that was my limit. Thinking about it, I have a Jenny / swager here, and I reckon I could approximate a wheel with that although it's crank driven rather than work piece driven. Good on you TT, if anyone can I reckon you can.
Oh and yes- PD's spot on, it can bite. I might tell you about the "risks" associated with "Putting the angle in" to form cones in a bending roller one day. Yikes!
e&oe ...
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Apr 15, 2021 21:50:38 GMT
If it's not too far off topic, I'd like to hear about metal working skills that could be applied to guitars. TT
|
|
|
Post by pete1951 on Apr 16, 2021 7:56:27 GMT
I have used a large jigsaw to cut holes in 2mm aluminium, instead of using a metal cutting blade I use a Bosch T101 laminate blade. These are only 3or 4 mm wide and let you do shapes a standard metal blade will not. The blade will not last long ( I guess 2 or 3 were used to cut out the above guitar). When using thinner metal some support would have to be given to stop the sheet distorting, fine detail can then be done with needle files. Pete If your jigsaw has a ‘pendulum ‘ action this should be tuned off.
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Apr 16, 2021 11:24:48 GMT
Does anyone know exactly how sides are welded on to bodies? TT
|
|
|
Post by Stevie on Apr 16, 2021 12:03:47 GMT
I'm guessing that they are soldered (that seems to be pronounced soddered by some folks!) or perhaps silver soldered but I don't know for certain.
e&oe ...
|
|
|
Post by Stevie on Apr 16, 2021 12:13:04 GMT
"Dimples" are good for countersinks in sheet metal because often the rivet or screw-heads are deeper than the material to be countersunk, but although it's dead easy to do, there are a few considerations and acquisitions / necessities that most kitchen table work would have to take into account first. A similar technique affords self tapping in sheet metal too although for a slightly different reason.
e&oe ...
|
|
|
Post by Michael Messer on Apr 16, 2021 12:36:59 GMT
I'm guessing that they are soldered (that seems to be pronounced soddered by some folks!) or perhaps silver soldered but I don't know for certain. e&oe ...Correct. They are soldered. Shine On Michael
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Apr 16, 2021 12:38:24 GMT
Are they soldered from the inside, or from the outside with a small gap? I can't really get my head around it. TT
|
|
|
Post by Stevie on Apr 16, 2021 14:03:37 GMT
I don't know whether they are butt joints or lap joints, but given that at some stage you are prevented from soldering on the inside I reckon they're soldered outside. I also suspect that they're lap jointed for additional strength?
e&oe ...
|
|
|
Post by Stevie on Apr 16, 2021 14:20:07 GMT
I used to use seaming tools. Apart from the flat "centre lock seam", the corner seams were called Pitsburgh which we called Lockform, and another was called Lockform, although we knew that incorrectly as Button Snap or Button Lock. Seems odd to imagine now, but long before I even knew some guitars were made from sheet metal, I used to wonder about making a guitar from the galvanised sheet we used, and it would have been Pitsburgh (or what we incorrectly called lockform) which was hammered over. It's a bit difficult to describe. The galvanised finish looked a lot like Duco too! Win win! Looking back with hindsight, although I had absolutely no idea what to do about a neck, I do wish I'd given it a go!
Behind the shed I have a Chinaman's Hat that I made for the dustbin at our first house because the previous owners took the lid with them for reasons probably best known only to themselves. Takes all sorts I suppose. Although it's a lot larger, TT's fascination with cover plates made me think of that, so did my remark earlier regarding "putting the angle in the rollers" to form conical sections. Brings tears to my eyes just to think of the possibility!
I recall confusing Fiddle Edge with Lockform many years ago on this Forum. If I'd had a closer look at an actual guitar instead of low resolution online images, I would have avoided that embarrassment, but in truth there are certain similarities.
e&oe ...
|
|
|
Post by Stevie on Apr 16, 2021 14:35:46 GMT
Best of it is, I still have all my fingers!
e&oe ...
|
|
|
Post by pete1951 on Apr 16, 2021 16:59:56 GMT
I seem to recall a video of the NRP factory showing the soldering process. I have made a soldered brass body 30 odd years ago when a friend and I made a pair of Dobro coned 14 fret guitars ( I’m sure I put some pics on the forum some time ago) . What I leant was very interesting and I have not made a metal body since! Pete
|
|
|
Post by bryanbradfield on Apr 16, 2021 19:19:56 GMT
Ted (Charles Edward) Brasher used a heavy iron pre-heated by an external source to solder the tops, sides, and backs of his metal guitars.
|
|