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Post by lexluthier on Oct 6, 2021 1:58:31 GMT
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Darryl
Serious MM Forum Member
Posts: 28
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Post by Darryl on Oct 6, 2021 9:30:00 GMT
Thanks for looking into this, Chris. I've made a note of your dimension and will use it if needed. I have already cut the hole and glued the sound well now using Michael's suggestion of scale + 2mm. That said, there's a fair amount of freedom within the sound well and there's probably no reason why I couldn't remove another couple of millimetres (if needed) of material to allow the cone to move back a notch later on.
Cheers,
Darryl
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sceyral
Serious MM Forum Member
Posts: 24
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Post by sceyral on Oct 27, 2021 12:46:31 GMT
to jbonecapo: All I can tell you, is just like good old doctor Freud said, about children education: "Do anything you want, in all cases it will be bad" The goal of intonation(string length change) is to ensure a better compromise, for equal temperament. It will change according to your strings height and your strings gauge: the thicker the strings, the most they go out of tune (sharp) up the neck; (the higher the action does the same). A cone shift will work for some strings, and not for others. So will do a cone (and bridge) rotation...BUT these operations don't have an individual effect, for each string : the risk is to improve the situation for a string or two, while it will get worse for others...
In most cases, a 1 to 3 mm is ok (but different for each string, like on an electric gt) : so my (very modest) advice is: respect the strict middle position for the bridge axis (and parallel to frets) and make (or buy, it's cheap) a compensated bridge. d(nut<-->12th fret) = d'(12th fret<--> bridge axis)
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