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Post by Pickers Ditch on Nov 15, 2020 14:46:58 GMT
I still prefer my lucky shot with the 1/4" diameter rod (lucky in so far as I didn't read about it anywhere, I just gave it a go.) Using that specific diameter stops the radius profile short of each fret by half the diameter of the rod and this affords a natural blend-in to the frets. There would be no edge rolling next to the fret from constant playing- only along the edges between the frets. That said, my Tele neck was maple, and rosewood or its ilk might be another matter and of course it would be pointless with binding. Finally, I'm no "luthier", but instinct tells me that the whole exercise is a waste of time unless you start off with perfectly manicured fret ends. e&oe ...That's how they do it and that's how I used to do my basses using a srewdriver shaft too. Some bloke in Charing Cross Rd. showed me how to do it decades ago - it works on rosewood and maple fretboards
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Post by slidefever on Nov 15, 2020 18:23:48 GMT
If you use any fine grit abrasive paper like sandpaper or "wet or dry" (sic), you can get a more even result by cutting long narrow strips, holding each end and pulling back and forth *around the corner* over the edge. I hope that is clear enough to visualise? Pulling straight is no better than using a file. In addition, I would mask up parallel to the edge and between the frets to where you intend the radius to commence and keep a constant wary eye on the masking tape. This will of course make lines contrary to the grain, but it's quite easy to redress that with fine grit. There's nothing wrong with this approach, I used to do it regularly in my working years while polishing and graining aluminium and stainless-steel. I still prefer my lucky shot with the 1/4" diameter rod (lucky in so far as I didn't read about it anywhere, I just gave it a go.) Using that specific diameter stops the radius profile short of each fret by half the diameter of the rod and this affords a natural blend-in to the frets. There would be no edge rolling next to the fret from constant playing- only along the edges between the frets. That said, my Tele neck was maple, and rosewood or its ilk might be another matter and of course it would be pointless with binding. Finally, I'm no "luthier", but instinct tells me that the whole exercise is a waste of time unless you start off with perfectly manicured fret ends. e&oe ...Thanks Stevie, Your lucky shot method worked for me. I plucked up the courage after fitting a second strap button (snake wood Waverley) to the body above the neck. You’re method was recommended by PD as well more or less. Thanks everyone else who contributed with common sense options. Best wishes Chris
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Post by leeophonic on Nov 15, 2020 19:23:21 GMT
Interesting that you say the guitar is not that old, it has been my experience that they take a while to properly dry out and thus limit the expansion contraction, I have a really high end electric which needed some oil on the fingerboard as it was still in a state of metamorphis. It has settled now although thinking about it from reading my comments I should get it from the case and have a look.
Regards
Lee
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Post by slidefever on Nov 16, 2020 7:34:53 GMT
I think you are right. A bit of a naive comment from me 🤨 All the best Chris 😎
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Post by charliechitlins on Dec 18, 2020 2:16:00 GMT
For me, rolling the edge doesn't go evenly down the board and frets, as you would get with a file or other abrasives. It would be done to round off between the frets and even give a slightly scalloped profile which mimics actual wear. I have accomplished this with the round shaft of a phillips screwdriver, using moderate pressure and going back and forth between 2 frets...then move to the next. If you have a finish on that edge, it could flake/chip. This will not work with binding. You'd need something abrasive for that. Not as abrasive as, say, Joan Rivers, but still abrasive
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