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Post by pete1951 on Jun 15, 2020 12:24:36 GMT
Its the body taper that determines angle over the cone,the neck should be on the same plane as the guitar top!shimming the tail-piece is a result of improper neck angle! Kenny,, This is usually the case , most metal body biscuit cones have a close to parallel relationship to the top (though many have a wedge between the neckstick and top to lift the top a little and make the end of the finger board level with the neck . Wood body (and fiddle edge Dobros - I have only worked on one and that was a long time ago) often have. 1 or 2 degree angle and need a wedge of some sort. (This is build into the fiddle edge body I think) My thoughts are that a 015-058 set of strings puts a load on the cone, a 012-52 will be much less, so a small increase in bridge/tail angle could give similar weight? Naturally the lighter strings will have a different tone, but could having the same down pressure compensate somewhat? Pete I have built several resos where the angle in front and behind the bridge is the same, I hoped that the more even pressure would give a better tone, though they sounded fine none were a great improvement on the current system |
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Post by kristo on Jun 15, 2020 14:31:04 GMT
Does anyone know if Thonmann still do the NRP 9.5 cone? its not listed on their site anymore I ordered from there the cone arrived damaged. I sent it back and the replacement arrived damaged. Maybe they've stopped selling them as they don't seem to be able to pack them very well. I ended up ordering from TFOA in Holland. |
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Post by flamenco on Jun 15, 2020 15:25:50 GMT
Anybody knows how to set up a reso with high action and zero break angle at the bridge?
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Post by pete1951 on Jun 15, 2020 15:32:07 GMT
Does anyone know if Thonmann still do the NRP 9.5 cone? its not listed on their site anymore I ordered from there the cone arrived damaged. I sent it back and the replacement arrived damaged. Maybe they've stopped selling them as they don't seem to be able to pack them very well. I ended up ordering from TFOA in Holland. Some years ago I ordered several cones from StewMac, none arrived damaged. They used a stiff cardboard box with spacers between cones. My preferred method is a biscuit (cone) tin.  Pete The cone pictured is one I use most, it’s a slightly dented Continental, I use it to get size angles etc, and don’t have to worry about it getting damaged |
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jgm1
MM Forum Member
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Post by jgm1 on Jun 15, 2020 22:08:59 GMT
Pete, an interesting contraption you came up with. I have some dial indicators and mounts I can do about the same thing. Also as Kenny discussed the neck and body being on the same plane, I'll look at that because if it is good then the plane would serve as the bearing line to establish the break angle. It sounds like I might want to make a tool that is like as adjustable height biscuit/saddle to test with and see if I can hear the difference. Although I am going to try the National Revolution biscuit that does have some height adjustment it is only .05" worth without cutting/filing down the saddle which I just assume not ruin for a test. Don't want to take the guitar apart until new strings arrive which got delayed again although I've got planty of work to do on it changing the nut, cleaning the fret board, etc.
Back to the topic of gluing the biscuit to the cone or not. I know just about everyone says to glue using wood glue. I've also read that someone used a small amount of rubber cement. I use gel super glue for nuts (just a couple of drops). Works well and the nut is easily removed with just a tap. What does the crew say about that being I'm using an aluminum biscuit? Wood glue doesn't make sense.
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Post by pete1951 on Jun 16, 2020 7:12:36 GMT
I have never glued a biscuit on so can’t comment. Aluminium biscuits and compensated bridge had a long thread a few weeks back. Most think it’s a gimmick, and that the simple maple bridge/biscuit will sound ‘better’. The small improvements in intonation may help when playing jazz chords high up the neck but tone will suffer.
Pete
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Post by pete1951 on Jun 16, 2020 13:53:23 GMT
Just remembered when I use glue on a biscuit. A cheap reso with a badly damaged top edge to the cone came in for repair. After reshaping it was still a little wobbly. I put a very thin bead of epoxy on the cone, sat the biscuit on after first covering with ‘cling-film’. When dry the biscuit had a perfect seating but was not glued on .
Pete
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jgm1
MM Forum Member
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Post by jgm1 on Jun 16, 2020 21:16:57 GMT
Thanks Pete on the biscuit to cone gluing answers. Sounds like you as well as StewMac are more into the no glue camp unless necessary. National and Beard are in the use glue camp. I read somewhere the someone used rubber cement to work as a low tack adhesive/gasket. I like that idea and could also use the same glue for a thread lock with the machine screw used with the National aluminum biscuit. National and Beard say to use yellow wood glue which just doesn't make any sense to me. Another thought as long as the biscuit bottom and cone top are truely flat is to use a little gel super glue (just three or four toothpick dabs. I use it with nuts and they pop right out with a little tap without harm to the guitar. I wrote StewMac yesterday and asked about the super glue thought awaiting a reply. They are just a state away from me as I'm in Indiana in the U.S.
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