Post by jgm1 on Jun 9, 2020 15:53:22 GMT
Copying a reply to an old thread I posted per suggestion given with a little refinement. Maybe help organize the topic information.
I'm new to the forum so a little intro is in order. I've been toying for years with acoustic and electric guitars as an amateur luthier taking good candidate low/mid range instruments, modifying with quality nuts/saddles, setups, and other mods with some good outcomes for my personal use. Maybe take up the trade after retirement (coming soon) as a second career. Enjoy playing as well to 'tame my inner beast' but not nearly as good as I can improve the instruments. This past year I dove into the world of resonator guitars acquiring a Korean made Dean steel body (a discontinued National single cone copy) with a black chrome finish). I believe it was made in the Samick factory where they will give me some info if I ever find the serial number. It's not on the headstock as Dean has told me. My current style of play is fretted notes versus slide and I intend on setting the guitar up close to a regular acoustic. I would like to learn everything I can about resonator setups and have some snips of information from varying resources (Stewmac, National, Paul Beard, etc.) and would really like a good book but it seems to be a stealthy topic. In the quest I emailed Mike who suggested this forum.
My refurbishment project includes a thorough cleaning, replacing the original plastic nut with a delrin zero glide (I would have used bone on a regular nut but I like zero frets), new cone (have one from National and Beard Guitars to see which one I prefer difference being the National is stamped with the spirals/dimples after spinning and the Beard one is smooth turned, and a new biscuit which I opted for the National Revolution system (aluminum biscuit/varying wood species saddles).
Here goes the questions:
a. Is there a good complete book on the topic?
b. My theory on the cone is that the Beard cone will be more true/responsive than the National Hot Rod because there is no stamping post turning (down side as far as I can tell is that it may be less durable where as the National cone form has more structure to it). The other part of the theory that with the Beard cone I'll still get the biscuit design 'bark' but a little more sustain. Opinions?
c. How tight should biscuit mounting screw be? Got it that it shouldn't be cranked down but something like hand tight + 1/8 - 1/4 of a turn? Again I'm going to try the National aluminum biscuit thus it is attached to the cone with a machine screw versus a wood screw. I could see the need to thread seal or use a nylon keyed lock screw to keep it where set. Then there is use of a washer which I would think could be another rattle source so perhaps a what I think is called a shoulder screw with built in washer and thread lock. Or raid the wifes fingernail polish......
d. Biscuit gluing to cone or not. Stewmac does not recommend, Beard does, Nationals instructions on the Revolution system doesn't call for it. The aluminum biscuit will not expand/contract due to environment but we are dealing with metal to metal contact versus wood to metal. If glue is used others have answered with light bead of titebond or other wood glue and some say rubber cement. I get the impression from the biscuit to cone glue camp that the purpose is to have an anti-rattle gasket leaving the mechanicl fixture up to the screw. Opinions?
e. I will want the best intonation that I can get with my playing style and plan to have the action at 12th fret down to 4/64 bass perhaps 3/64 treble depending on multiple factors. The National saddles are also compensated but from what I've read the cone position is of primary importance and is advised that it floats. Tips and Tricks?
Lastly for the forum enjoyment, I've read some of the discussions between musicians and musician/engineers and chuckled. I've been in the military aircraft industry for going on 40 years starting as a U.S. Navy avionics tech to now a humble civil servant systems analyst working with aircraft software support. My bread and butter is to keep the engineers honest but the engineering thing rubs off. So feel free to pot shot if I get too detailed but it is a good mesh to the luthier craft.
I'm sure there is more but before over extending my welcome, look forward to working with all you.
I'm new to the forum so a little intro is in order. I've been toying for years with acoustic and electric guitars as an amateur luthier taking good candidate low/mid range instruments, modifying with quality nuts/saddles, setups, and other mods with some good outcomes for my personal use. Maybe take up the trade after retirement (coming soon) as a second career. Enjoy playing as well to 'tame my inner beast' but not nearly as good as I can improve the instruments. This past year I dove into the world of resonator guitars acquiring a Korean made Dean steel body (a discontinued National single cone copy) with a black chrome finish). I believe it was made in the Samick factory where they will give me some info if I ever find the serial number. It's not on the headstock as Dean has told me. My current style of play is fretted notes versus slide and I intend on setting the guitar up close to a regular acoustic. I would like to learn everything I can about resonator setups and have some snips of information from varying resources (Stewmac, National, Paul Beard, etc.) and would really like a good book but it seems to be a stealthy topic. In the quest I emailed Mike who suggested this forum.
My refurbishment project includes a thorough cleaning, replacing the original plastic nut with a delrin zero glide (I would have used bone on a regular nut but I like zero frets), new cone (have one from National and Beard Guitars to see which one I prefer difference being the National is stamped with the spirals/dimples after spinning and the Beard one is smooth turned, and a new biscuit which I opted for the National Revolution system (aluminum biscuit/varying wood species saddles).
Here goes the questions:
a. Is there a good complete book on the topic?
b. My theory on the cone is that the Beard cone will be more true/responsive than the National Hot Rod because there is no stamping post turning (down side as far as I can tell is that it may be less durable where as the National cone form has more structure to it). The other part of the theory that with the Beard cone I'll still get the biscuit design 'bark' but a little more sustain. Opinions?
c. How tight should biscuit mounting screw be? Got it that it shouldn't be cranked down but something like hand tight + 1/8 - 1/4 of a turn? Again I'm going to try the National aluminum biscuit thus it is attached to the cone with a machine screw versus a wood screw. I could see the need to thread seal or use a nylon keyed lock screw to keep it where set. Then there is use of a washer which I would think could be another rattle source so perhaps a what I think is called a shoulder screw with built in washer and thread lock. Or raid the wifes fingernail polish......
d. Biscuit gluing to cone or not. Stewmac does not recommend, Beard does, Nationals instructions on the Revolution system doesn't call for it. The aluminum biscuit will not expand/contract due to environment but we are dealing with metal to metal contact versus wood to metal. If glue is used others have answered with light bead of titebond or other wood glue and some say rubber cement. I get the impression from the biscuit to cone glue camp that the purpose is to have an anti-rattle gasket leaving the mechanicl fixture up to the screw. Opinions?
e. I will want the best intonation that I can get with my playing style and plan to have the action at 12th fret down to 4/64 bass perhaps 3/64 treble depending on multiple factors. The National saddles are also compensated but from what I've read the cone position is of primary importance and is advised that it floats. Tips and Tricks?
Lastly for the forum enjoyment, I've read some of the discussions between musicians and musician/engineers and chuckled. I've been in the military aircraft industry for going on 40 years starting as a U.S. Navy avionics tech to now a humble civil servant systems analyst working with aircraft software support. My bread and butter is to keep the engineers honest but the engineering thing rubs off. So feel free to pot shot if I get too detailed but it is a good mesh to the luthier craft.
I'm sure there is more but before over extending my welcome, look forward to working with all you.