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Post by resolive on Oct 13, 2017 18:37:27 GMT
:-D Actually I think this will be easier, this way I don't have to try to separate the biscuit from the cone, frankly I felt unsure about that one, seems like it'd be easy to bend the cone and that'd suck...
I went the fancy option. I too have a Republic cone BTW (well I assume it's a Republic cone since it's a Republic guitar :-p). The saddle is 1/8" thick. What did you use to trim to height? Sand paper? How much did you remove? What about the string grooves? Small file or did you invest in a set of files?
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Post by Pickers Ditch on Oct 13, 2017 19:14:20 GMT
In my opinion it's safer to remove the biscuit from the cone and work on it seperately as you can only bu88er the biscuit / saddle if you accidentally apply a little too much force. It's too easy to crease a cone if you're not careful. I took off enough to give me just above 3mm string height at the twefth fret using sandpaper on a flat surface. i.e sandpaper flat on the work top and rub the saddle until you've got it to the right height. The string grooves were then cut very gently with a surgical scalpel, biscuit / saddle fitted back on the cone then reassembled the guitar. Only then did I finish off each groove with a short length of round wound string (using it as a file) at the appropriate gauge for each string slot to give me a gnats cock under 3mm at the twelfth fret when all was tuned to Vestapol D.
Remember that when you tune up and put tension on the strings the cone will compress and the action will lower accordingly.
Others may wish to chime in with a safer and/or easier way to do it...
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Post by resolive on Oct 13, 2017 19:43:34 GMT
It's really amazing how thin these things are... I was going to take the saddle off for any sanding action. Especially since I'd be sanding the bottom since I don't want to take any of the ebony off. What string gauge are you using? Up until now I was using 12-53 for fingerpicking, but now I'm guessing I really should up it up some since I'm setting it up for slide. 13-56 would be better, right? I think I have a set of John Pearse somewhere down in my basement...
Oh shoot they are a starting to show a little bit of rust. Oops.
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Post by Pickers Ditch on Oct 13, 2017 19:57:05 GMT
That was my problem - the saddle was glued into the biscuit and I was scared stiff that if I tapped it to remove it whilst still attached to the cone I would damage the cone. For strings, I would suggest the phosphor bronze versions of these: www.newtonestrings.com/shop/michael-messer-national-guitar-strings/Read the full spec where you'll find they tune at a lower tension and thus are easier to play whilst giving great tone. If you do use them, READ THE FITTING INSTRUCTIONS CAREFULLY. They have round cores and should NOT be trimmed or cut until after fitting and tuning to pitch - they will unravel!!!!
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Post by resolive on Oct 13, 2017 20:05:05 GMT
OK, thanks. You know, I think I'm going to make my life easier and take it for a full setup when I receive the saddle. :-P For like $60 I'll be sure it's in tip top playing shape afterwards...
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Post by Pickers Ditch on Oct 13, 2017 20:18:06 GMT
OK, thanks. You know, I think I'm going to make my life easier and take it for a full setup when I receive the saddle. :-P For like $60 I'll be sure it's in tip top playing shape afterwards... That's exactly what I did with my 1931 Triolian - I wouldn't trust myself on that one, the Republic was a different story.
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Post by creolian on Oct 13, 2017 20:26:45 GMT
400 grit sandpaper will knock off the rust on strings. I just did with a set of 3yo but mostly unplayed Thomastiks that were just too expensive to waste. Figuring it was at least worth a try, I am very pleased with how they came out. Took all of two minutes... finding my wet/dry sandpaper stash was the hardest part.
And FWIW, I can't get MM newtones here and have been experimenting with other brands. I've ended up with a custom gauged set on my beard combining heavy strings on the treble 3 and a lighter gauge on the bass end. The guitar has an amazing bass response and a 56 tuned to drop d is a little too bassy for my tastes. I tried a set of martins and although sold as .13meds, the set has some lighter gauge strings on top for what I assume is a bluegrass sound. Currently the brand I'm using on that guitar is DR sunbeams mixed with Martins.
I have four reso guitars now and different brands,types and gauges make a big difference in how they sound. Mines still a work in progress but I highly suggest some experimentation to find what works best for you. For some reason, My republic metal guitar likes a flatwound G.
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Post by resolive on Oct 13, 2017 21:16:07 GMT
OK, thanks. You know, I think I'm going to make my life easier and take it for a full setup when I receive the saddle. :-P For like $60 I'll be sure it's in tip top playing shape afterwards... That's exactly what I did with my 1931 Triolian - I wouldn't trust myself on that one, the Republic was a different story. Oh yeah I definitely wouldn't mess with one of those. :-) The Republic is cheaper (although these things are built like tanks, I once accidentally dropped a hammer on it and it doesn't even have a ding!), but I guess I'm more concerned about messing up its setup.
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Post by resolive on Oct 13, 2017 21:17:45 GMT
creolian : thank you, I'll try that, it's a good idea. The only thing I'm worried about experimenting with different gauges is that if the strings don't fill their slots well then the sound may suffer... I'll see what the luthier says.
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Post by Deleted on Oct 13, 2017 21:34:04 GMT
Only one person in all these posts has mentioned the nut. Why not experiment with shims cut from a business card under it.If you don't get a result no harm done then start on the saddle. If you do get it feeling good then play with it for a few days to be sure and then have a new nut cut.If you're planning on 'exploring' slide playing then presumably it's new territory for you so just get the action up at the nut so the slide doesn't hit the edge of the frets (very off putting) and worry about fine tuning the action later. it takes a little while to find the optimum action for both slide and fingering.
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Post by creolian on Oct 14, 2017 0:11:52 GMT
creolian : thank you, I'll try that, it's a good idea. The only thing I'm worried about experimenting with different gauges is that if the strings don't fill their slots well then the sound may suffer... I'll see what the luthier says. Only time I've had an issue is when putting much larger strings on electrics set up for 9s and it's the nut end that needs some relief. As long as they don't bind in too small slot you should be ok. I can second what Graeme mentions above about shimming the nut as well. P.S. I've found that for every "luthier" there is an equal but opposite luthier... IMO, Reso guitars are different, a lot of techs calling themselves luthiers will take on anything "dam the torpedoes and full speed ahead!" it's important to find someone who's got a bit of experience. I'm still looking here in NOLA
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Post by leeophonic on Oct 14, 2017 5:50:35 GMT
There is another option with the saddle as happens with Dobros.
This is easier than removing all of it from the biscuit/base.
Remove the biscuit plane & square off the top of the saddle and glue a cap onto it.
Cut new slots to where you want them.
Lee
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Post by pete1951 on Oct 14, 2017 7:02:23 GMT
It's really amazing how thin these things are... I was going to take the saddle off for any sanding action. Especially since I'd be sanding the bottom since I don't want to take any of the ebony off. . There are many who think ebony is too hard , and gives the biscuit reso. a harsh tone. Many far eastern resos have ebony caps, but not most of the ones that are thought of as having the best tone..(MMs, old Busker models , 1930s Nationals, etc) PT
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Post by resolive on Oct 17, 2017 0:31:00 GMT
I received the Replogle (what a crazy name! :-D) saddle, compensated & split ebony/maple (maple for the two highest strings and ebony for the rest). It's a tad longer and thicker than my previous saddle, but I hope the luthier will have no problems dropping it in (they specialize in bluegrass instruments so I think they're used to work on resonators). The thickness especially is a hair thicker than the previous one (it was supposed to be 1/8" but it looks like it came in a bit thicker, maybe just because it's easy to shave some thickness but it's harder to put it back :-P) but I imagine all you need is a little bit of sandpaper so it should be no big deal (crosses fingers)...
As for the slightly larger width I also assume it shouldn't be a problem. Hope I'm not wrong! Will drop the guitar off tomorrow after work probably... can't wait!!!
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Post by pete1951 on Oct 20, 2017 9:10:29 GMT
Hope you get the action you want, a new saddle is possible the proper way (though some might say a neck re-set , this depends on the bridge/tail angle). I still think that a slackened truss rod and a gauge heavier strings might have done the job, or did you try these are found them inadequate? Both of these things are reversible , and cost the price of a set of strings. PT
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