home made 'dobro'

[Deleted]

Hi there
So i've started the home made 'dobro' (trying to post more than one pic at a time is proving more difficult)
1/. a free neck, cleared and sanded
2/. 3 bits of 18mm pine (from 1 piece), front, 'sides' and back.
3/. er - so far so good
Cheers

TT

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[DaveRed]

If it sounds as good as it looks, you should be onto a winner!

Dave

[Michael Messer]

Hi Deuce,

That looks like a pretty good start to me. I look forward to seeing the finished article.

Shine On
Michael

[Deleted]

dobro parts ordered, soundwell / "t" holes routed & looking OK - cost so far around £120. any suggestions re setting / fixing neck, and varnish / finish welcome though.
TT
addit - the floorboards are next

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[pete1951]

My main worry is that all the grain goes across the body , it looks like theres no timber in line with the strings . I`m guessing the sides are about 1.25" thick (and you have cut a hole in the middle 2 layers to make a resonating chamber? ) This may well be strong enough but I would put in a large neck-stick, neck to end block, to stiffen the body. A stiff body can be good for a resonator, and yours will be stiff! I hope the body has enough volume to get a good bass sound, if not you could remove the back and add another 18mm.

[Deleted]

You've got it pretty much spot on pete. The grain issue didn't occur to me when I planned it, but next time i'll do it. I'll see if I can get a neck stick in, but I think it will be stiff enough if i can't.
When you say 'enough body' for the bass, are you referring to the amount of 'chamber space' or amount of wood in the body?
Also, any good ideas about varnish - spray / paint on?
TT

[Tymus]

Hi Deuce,

I recently came across this article on building a Dobro that should be of some use to you. Here's a link to a .pdf document

www.hangoutstorage.com/resohangout.com/storage/attachments/building-a-resonator-40021252011.pdf

Tymus

[davey]

If there's any glue on the surface of the joints, it will stop a stain from penetrating. If it's completely glue-free you can stain it and use French polish or sanding sealer to seal the grain. It's pretty easy. If you can see any glue at all, you can only leave it natural and apply the finishes I've said, or you could spray paint it.

Is that all solid timber ?? It'll be interesting to hear how it sounds (and how much it weighs !)

Good luck !

[Deleted]

Thanks for the advice chaps - just need to sand / coat the body, set the neck and (when the saddle arrives) string it up. I'll be amazed it it sounds OK, but I've learned some good stuff for the next one (e.g. how to use a router without losing fingers).
TT

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[Deleted]

Quick question - i've set / glued the neck, but how long before the glue (evostick woodworking glue) sets hard enough to string it up?
TT

[Deleted]

Last post about this...
Aside from finishing the paint job / cover plate, its all done!
Its only got light strings (10-46) at the mo, and there's no rattle. The tone is WAY better than I thought, and the action and intonation are real good. Volume is about 1/2 that of my collegian, but its not all about volume eh? All in all, WAY better than I thought it would be - for under £100.
TT

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[oldnick]

Lookin' good Deuce. Well done
Nick

[Deleted]

Hi there
... the early stages of my sub-ton home made electric biscuit.
1/. unplayable egmond 'archtop' - no well (yet)
2/. bit of cut ply - no hole yet
3/. humbucker (thanks pete1951)
4/. amistar cone (thanks washboardchris)
5/. my spare MM coverplate (if thats OK)
I'll post another pic or two when / if it all works,
TT

(or neck stick yet!)

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[Michael Messer]

TT, It is going to look great.

Shine On
Michael

[pete1951]

Would be good to have a `stick` between neck/tail blocks. Your `well` may give the top enough strength, but a stick will stop any bending.
PT